Wheeling and dealing in Bagan >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 15

Oct 12: Night, Bagan

Tired. After taking a leisurely trishaw ride to check out New Bagan, we walked more than seven kilometres from that somnolent town (with expensive food and mid-range accommodation) back to Nyaung-Oo, with several delightful detours for sightseeing and photos.

Ah, transport. Every rickshaw, trishaw and horsecart driver quoted foreigners a price in hundreds of kyat, even for a distance you can stroll across in five or 10 minutes. And if you want a longer ride or to charter your personal carriage, be prepared to deal by the thousands in kyat. Truly a stimulating arena to sharpen those bargaining skills dulled by fixed-price living.

We are staying between Nyaung-Oo and Old Bagan, near the food places yet still within shouting distance of the nearest Bagan ruins. We found this hotel by accident. Actually, the hotel manager found us.

We were out for a walk after our 7am breakfast. As soon as we were out of sight of our guesthouse, a tanned, lanky man attached himself to us. He introduced himself as the manager of a nearby hotel and offered us accommodation and breakfast at the same price as that of our guesthouse.

Obviously, the market was very competitive and he had done his homework. He knew how much we had paid for our bed and breakfast in that guesthouse, with nary a word from us. Ah, shades of industrial espionage and the invisible hand of market forces at work. Harsh reality amidst misty, ancient splendour, but possibly advantagous to a couple of budget-conscious yet pampered tourists!

Since we were just metres away from his hotel, we went for a look. His place had been built for packaged and more upmarket tourists, who had not arrived in expected droves. So now, for the same price charged by our guesthouse, we were offered added facilities such as aircon, cable TV and breakfast at the open terrace on the roof.

Of course we took him up on his offer. Earlier, the nice lady at the front desk of our hotel in Yangon had recommended this hotel. She told us the manager (that lanky, tanned man as it turned out) was her classmate in school.

Bagan is for ruins buffs. Walk, jog or bike down one road and you will come across some ruins, usually sooner rather than later. Feast your eyes on weathered stones, aged grandeur and a stately dignity untarnished by creeping roots, winding roads, pestering hawkers and gawking tourists. Kings, marauders, explorers, archaeologists and tourists come and go. And through the centuries, Bagan remains.

Modern visitors, meanwhile, have to endure all sorts of people peddling trinkets and souvenirs just about anywhere with a tourist footprint.

While taking a leisurely trishaw ride, various people on bicycles and on foot came level with us and started to sell us paintings and pony cart rides. The painter entrepreneur unrolled one of his works and held it up. No? How about this one, then? And another painting was unfurled after his first one was stowed away. All the while, he was paddling his bike to keep pace with our trishaw. Awesome feat! Unfortunately, our appreciation of his fine balance and industry was miscontrued as a healthy enthusiasm for his works. Finally, we had to shake our heads firmly before he got the message.

Before we could settle down to enjoy our suddenly-not-at-all-leisurely ride, another man rode up. Waving his kyat at us, this one offered to change money on the spot, er, move! The Myanmarese has given the concept of a mobile stall a new twist.

Other enterprising locals set up business among the ruins. When we visited, they tried to sell us Buddha figures, souvenirs, gems (glittering like rubies) and postcards. Most trying was when these hawkers followed us while we were admiring the interior of the temples. We were not singled out for any special attention; the hawkers were very indiscriminate as they latched on to each and every visitor. Alas, no peaceful comtemplation to be enjoyed in the sanctuary.

Someone has posted this observation on a travel website: tourists are walking dollars to the locals. How right, but I think we will spend more money on souvenirs and such if the hawkers simply allow us to enjoy the ruins in peace and browse their wares at leisure.

Budget (for two in US$ or kyat as indicated)

Room >> US$8
Trishaw to New Bagan >> K600
Lunch >> K1,650
H20 >> K600
Dinner >> K2,200

Next... Snakes and touts (where are the ladders when you need them?)