Oct 22: Night, Chiangmai
Okay. So.
Not every restaurant serves value-for-money or tasty food.
We just had Thai
food for dinner. What we had in Bangkok's Krua Nopparat was better. As we were walking back, we saw a street vendor selling soups and small dishes with rice. They looked sensational!
Wish we had that instead.
There are many noodles stalls, scattered all over Chiang Mai town. Few stalls taste alike, even if they are all selling the usual array of fried and soup dishes. Even phad tai, the ubiquitous Thai fried noodles, tastes different at different stalls. I guess every cook has his or her own secret recipe. A culinary adventure!
Most of the street stalls seem clean enough. Last night, we ate kuay teow soup from one stall, which had set up several tables on the pavement by a carpark. A simple and enjoyable meal, with nary a squeak in protest from our tummies after that. We avoided the ice water and raw vegetables, two items usually provided free at noodles eateries, though.
At these casual eating places, we often have only a vague idea of what we have ordered because communication is limited to sign language. We point to items we can identify or to other people's orders and then hope the stall owner gets ours right!
So far, that has gotten us delicious food, cheerful grins or grunts and bills a portion of what we would have to pay if we stick to hotel restaurants and more formal seat-down eateries.
Oct 23: Night, Chiangmai
I am watching Ally McBeal and writing this. I think Ally is on her second last season. Am so not into the show now. I have stopped watching the series when it is on in Singapore.
On previous trips, however, I have discovered some gems from cable TV in some of the hotels and guesthouses we have stayed in. I remember catching X-Files in India in the 1990s. I got hooked after that and started to follow the series when I returned to Singapore.
Annie says I turn into a TV-freak when we travel. I judiciously abstain from comment.
My friend is now in the bathroom trying out the clothes we bought earlier. Ah! Here she is. Looks good on her. These clothes are to supplement our thoroughly meagre wardrobe, which is getting thinner with every vigorous wash by our hands or by the local laundry.
Although we are of different build, we can still share certain tops. This gives us more choices when we mix and match our clothes, spicing up the monotony of wearing the same few pieces every day.
Just now, however, the thrill of new clothes takes a back seat to the goggle box. I cannot be bothered to try the colourful bargains strewn all over our beds.
From the corner of my left eye, I note Annie's exasperated amusement at my imitation of a couch potato. Yes, there is no prying me away from the set. Clothes, they can wait. I will even stop pecking at my journal after this sentence.
Right now, I prefer the antics of Ally, Fish, et al.
Budget (for two in baht)
Oct 22
Room >> B550Breakfast (in addition to hotel's) >> B40Coffee >> B55Laundry >> B85Lunch >> B40Internet >> B27Snacks >> B10Drinks >> B30Dinner >> B172
Oct 23
Room >> B550Lunch >> B60Laundry >> B30Groceries >> B249Clothes >> B799Drinks >> B26Dinner B130
Next... Threshold of the Golden Triangle
Oct 21: Afternoon, Chiang Mai
We have found another way to get to Luang Prabang. So, no need to spend more money flying there. Instead, we now plan to head north to Chiang Khong via Chiang Rai. I am already anticipating the coming road trip.
In the meantime, we are having great fun just eating and checking out all sorts of accommodation. Earlier today, we moved into Montri Hotel, opposite Tha Phae Gate.
Tomorrow, we will move again, to our third place in three days. Tapae Place Hotel is a bit cheaper than the Montri, yet offers a comfort of similar standard. In addition, breakfast is included.
Chiang Mai is so chockful of budget and not-so-budget accommodation that moving may simply mean packing your bags and carrying them two streets down. Like what we have been doing!
All this energy must be from the gut-bursting meals we have been enjoying. I am still full from lunch. Food is plentiful and prices are reasonable for the generous portions (at least, at the places we have eaten so far).
As for sightseeing, we found much to absorb our attention while walking Chiang Mai's streets in search of another B&B. Busy markets, tranquil temples, smart shops and funky coffeehouses co-exist in a blend of old, new and something in between.
Budget (for two in baht) 
Room >> B575Breakfast >> B178Tuk-tuk >> B20Lunch >> B139Ice-cream >> B20Postcards >> B52Drinks >> B26Dinner >> B40Drinks >> B85
Next...Ally on telly
Oct 20: Night, Chiang Mai
After the rainy weather in Bagan, Chiang Mai is hot!
Air Mandalay is fine. We got a piping hot meal and coffee during the flight. The interior of our plane was so clean, it was gleaming. Most enjoyable flight.
We took a taxi from Chiang Mai Airport to town. The taciturn driver barely acknowledged us before pulling out of the airport. Along the way, he asked for our destination. There was a short silence after we told him to drop us at Roong Ruang Hotel. Then, the man said, "Roong Ruang old."We kept quiet, wondering if he was thrashing our choice so he could bring us to one of those hotels and guesthouses that paid him commission. After all, some guide books had recommended the place.At Tha Phae Gate, the driver suddenly stopped his taxi by the roadside and gruffly told us we had to alight. When we told him our guesthouse was on the other side of the Gate, two roads across, he still would not budge another inch."Road's closed today," was all he offered in explanation. Then, without another word, he took our bags and left them on the pavement. Clearly, he was determined to get rid of us! But, what is the point of taking a taxi if it is not going to bring us to the doorstep of our destination?
A little disgruntled, we hefted our bags and crossed to Tha Phae Gate. Immediately, we caught the festive air. Scores of people milled around and many of them seemed to be setting up stalls for some kind of fair at the open space by the Gate. Now that we were on this side of the Gate, we saw that our grouchy taxi driver was telling the truth about the road closure.
When we reached Roong Ruang, the gregarious owner (a bit pushy about tours) confirmed that Tha Phae Road was closed to traffic on Sunday for pedestrians, stalls and buskers. Indeed, many were out in force with their violins, traditional instruments and electric guitars along the road outside our guesthouse. It also turned out that our driver was more accurate in his assessment of our accommodation choice than the guide books. The quality of our room did not live up to the expectation heightened by the attractive courtyard. Instead, our room was rather cramped and stuffy despite the fan.
We decided to pamper ourselves at dinner. Strolling, we saw a steakhouse and dropped in. Once our food arrived, we inhaled the generous portions of tasty potato, other vegetables and meat. This indulgence brought to mind how much less food there appeared to be available to the general populance in Myanmar.
In local restaurants, when we ordered fish, it came as half a fish (head or tail portion). On another occasion, we had three sardines (about six to seven inches long) swimming in a voluminous plate. Even the three-star hotel we stayed in on our last day in Yangon could only put out a sparse breakfast spread. The looks of foreign tourists when they appeared for breakfast that morning could best be described as disappointed.
On the other hand, it also cast an unflattering light on the gorging and binging in our affluent societies. We eat and waste too much. And we grow fat and sickly. Annie and I admire the willowy and well-toned physique of many a Myanmarese man and woman. But, what story can each body tell us? How, then, can we find a balance between starvation and surfeit?
Before we got overly morose about the health of our world, Annie and I stopped talking and concentrated on appreciating (and not wasting) our food. Soon, pleasantly stuffed, we left the steakhouse and wandered the streets for a bit, before heading back to our guesthouse near Tha Phae Gate.
Budget (for two in kyat, US$ or baht as indicated)
Stamps >> K100
Taxi to Yangon airport >> K2,000
Yangon airport tax >> US$20
Taxi (CM airport to guesthouse) >> B100
Room >> B350
Drink >> B24
Dinner >> B259
Internet >> B20
Next...
Moving
Oct 19: Night, Yangon
It was a dark, stormy night.Oh yes, another. Just like the wet evening that greeted our arrival not too long ago. What is with Yangon and storms?
I am now writing by torchlight. Another power failure. I guess modern tourist-class hotels are as vulnerable as small guesthouses.
After a long and grimy ride (16.5 hours), we checked our stash of FECs and realised we still had a fair bit to contribute to the national economy. Hence, our splurge in this hotel - aircon, ensuite with bathtub and marble vanity, king-size beds, cable-TV and a panaromic view of downtown Yangon. From our window, the rows and rows of train carriages at the railway station looked like Lego blocks.
The trip from Bagan to Yangon was as lengthy as our previous bus ride from Yangon to Mandalay. I could never sleep well on overnight bus trips, but there was plenty outside my window to occupy my interest.I think we crossed at least one dried river. That part of the terrain was very sandy and, in the dark, the lighter-colour sand reflected what light there was to form an errie, faintly glowing stream, disappearing into the distance on either side of the bus as the vehicle rolled by, bumping a little on the tiny granules. When we reached the end of the sandy passage, I looked up and saw houses perched above us. I guess if the river was flowing, the land we had been travelling on would be underwater.
Then, there were the bridges we crossed. They did not feel very firm. If there was another vehicle, our driver always waited for the other party to get to the other side before he moved us across, gingerly.
Our bus was packed. There were people sitting on the aisle. These people sat on small, squarish chairs, contraptions attached to the normal bus seats. When needed, the user simply pulled one out and unfolded it. The driver turned off the aircon after our 2.30am pit stop. For the rest of the journey, we sat with open windows, enjoying the night breeze.
At the Yangon bus station we arrived in, we encountered another racket. We were looking for a taxi and this guy told us he had one. From the way he spoke, we thought he was the driver. Turned out he was the racketeer. Once he brought us to the taxi, he collected 20% of the fare he had negotiated with us from the driver, whose vehicle was parked in the direction we had been walking towards before the racketeer waylaid us.
Why should we pay such exorbitant rates, or anything at all, to someone who had not rendered an iota of useful service? The driver shook his head, said that was how it worked here. My guess is, even if we took his cab at our own initiative, he would still have to cough up that fee.
Budget (for two in US$ or kyat as indicated)
Oct 18
Lunch >> K1,900Sandwiches >> K1,050
Oct 19
Taxi to hotel >> K2,500Room >> US$30Tip >> K200Lunch >> K1,320Magazines >> K550Dinner >> K1,140Coffee & doughnuts >> K765
Next... Road block on Sunday
Oct 17: Night, Bagan
After a week 'vegeing' in Bagan, we are looking forward to be on the move again. Bagan is a great place to relax.Making arrangements to fly from Mandalay to Chiang Mai, however, is anything but relaxing. Our Mandalay to Chiang Mai plan has been torpedoed by a series of unfortunate events. We now have to go back to Yangon instead.
While in Mandalay a week earlier, we dropped by a travel agent's office and asked about flights to Chiang Mai. When the nice lady behind the desk found out that we would be staying in Bagan for several days, she assured us that we could easily book our flights there.
We should not have taken her friendly advice. Ah, hindsight...
On our second day in Bagan, we checked with the ticketing office in New Bagan and was told they could not accept any booking because the computer system was down.
We gave up and went back to our hotel in Old Bagan.
Our hotel manager said he would try to buy the tics for us. The next three to four days went by, but he could not confirm our flight. Finally, two days before our planned departure, he told us apologetically that there were no more seats for the Mandalay-Chiang Mai flight we wanted, but he could secure seats on the next flight a few days from now if we also flew from Bagan to Mandalay.
We were not planning to waste our US$-FECs on a flight when we could spend our money on a local bus ride from Bagan to Mandalay. Anyway, up to that point, no one ever mentioned the two flights in the same sentence!
Needless to say, we were somewhat put out by this chain of events. The manager then told us that there were flights from Yangon to Chiang Mai, but, of course, that would entail an even longer trip back to the capital first. The good news was, he could book our Yangon-Chiang Mai flight; no need to fly from Bagan to Yangon first!
So, in the end, we regretfully told the manager that we would not be able to enjoy his hospitality much longer as we would now have to take a much longer bus ride to Yangon. He, ever smiley, booked our Yangon-Chiang Mai tickets and even got one of his staff to run down to the village square to buy our bus tickets.
Budget (for two in US$ or kyat as indicated)
Room >> US$8
Flight (Yangon to Chiang Mai) >> US$178
Bus to Yangon >> K8,000
Lunch >> K1,150
Tea >> K1,000
Biscuits & nuts >> K400
Dinner K2,000
Next...
A ride in the dark
Oct 16: Night, Bagan
The sun came out of hiding in the afternoon. After an early morning drizzle, the light sunshine was perfect weather for us to continue our ruins ramble.
Today, Mr Khin Zaw could not drive us, so we got his friend instead. Earlier, this horse cart driver with an entrepreneurial bend told us that he had invested money made from his driving in another horse cart, which he now rented to his friend or cousin. This way, he was earning another steady income while giving work to another, who could not afford a cart of his own.
Mr Khin Zaw's replacement spoke little English, but he was gentle and earnest. We spent several idyllic hours riding and walking among the ruins.
I think we have enjoyed the best of both worlds in our two chauffeurs. The more energetic and gregarious Khin Zaw was affable company and a fount of local knowledge, accepting our sweets and snacks happily. He provided a very positive counterfoil to the relentless presence of intrusive touts at major attractions.
His friend was far more reserved, perhaps because he could not speak much English. However, on the day we valued our peace after days dodging hawkers and touts, his silent presence among the more tranquil ruins was very appreciated.
Away from the ruins, and because of the intermitten rain, we ended up spending a fair bit of time strolling around the village near our hotel. Tonight, our restaurant had a power failure. So we ate in cosy candle light. After dinner, we strolled some more.
Up the street on our way back to our hotel, someone had set up a TV. Aside from the TV's glow, there was little light. That did not deter the crowd that had gathered to watch the soap opera. Some simply squatted while others sat on low stools.
There were numerous bikes nearby. Many in the audience must have cycled here to watch TV. It was like watching a movie in our cinema. The chief difference was that, instead of a concrete roof with appropriate acoustics, this group enjoyed their movie under a canopy of the night sky. And instead of a hi-tech wide screen, they got their dose of pop culture from a small, black box with its inquisitive antenna pointed towards the heavens.
But, their enjoyment, judging from the absorbed attention all round, was no less. And across the street, a group huddled around a fire, enjoying dinner by moon light.
Budget (for two in US$ or kyat as indicated)
Room >> US$8
Horse cart (full-day) >> K3,000
Postcards & donation >> K760
Lunch >> K1,500
Dinner >> K2,000
Next...
Murphy pays a visit
Oct 15: Night, Bagan
More rain. It finally stopped drizzling at about 1pm. A few hours later, a small shower returned, then became heavier.
It is still drizzling.
Our horse cart driver had become rather desperate because we did not want to visit the ruins in the rain. We told him early each morning so we would not deprive him of other custom, but I guess business was bad because more people kept indoor when it was wet and muddy outside.
Time passes slowly here. Just the way we like it, as long as we get to return to a faster pace of life later on.
But, I wonder what sort of impression we have created for the locals. After all, we are paying in US$ for a room everyday and we have spent two days sitting around, drinking tea and coffee, snacking and reading!
The local people must find us very different from them, even though we are all Asian. And after observing only these visible aspects of our behaviour and that of other foreign visitors, it is not surprising if the locals come to the conclusion that all tourists are rich.
On the chow front, the Myanmarese will do better if they serve different types of food. Many of the restaurants and eateries, where tourists congregate, list almost identical dishes on their menus. Very monotonous, though some outlets have better cooks than others.
Budget (for two in US$ or kyat as indicated)
Room >> US$8Lunch >> K1,000Dinner >> K1,775
Next...A slice of village life
Oct 14: Night, Bagan
We could not visit any ruins today because the rain turned firm earth into brown sludge. The ground around the ruins was too muddy to walk around barefoot. For our untried, unschooled feet, that is. Besides, we were rather worried about earth-borne parasites. The locals appeared much less concerned about the fate of their feet.
At 8.30am, in steady drizzle, our horse cart driver promptly appeared outside our hotel. We quickly made our way to where Mr Khin Zaw had parked. Man, horse and cart were dripping in the rain. He appeared resigned and a little dismayed that we wanted to postpone the day's ramble. Since we agreed to pay him for each trip completed, he was eager to try the next day. We told him we would go if the weather was good, but we know he would appear promptly again the next morning.
I do not know about Annie, but I am glad for this respite. We are still aching from our trudge back from New Bagan two days ago and our ruins ramble yesterday. This just shows how little exercise our legs get back home!
But, the sore muscles were a tiny price for the smorgasbord of sensory delights offered by Bagan. Certainly, the most atmospheric ruins are the less visited ones. No one to pester us to buy another postcard, change money or give a candy, a haven for us and a chance to contemplate the past in peace.
Back in our room, we were shocked when we switched on the TV and saw scenes of the devastation left by the Bali bombers. It was so surreal watching images of death and destruction on screen in our quiet, aircon room, thousands of miles away, in another tourist village seeped in centuries of war and peace.
Budget (for two in US$ or kyat as indicated)
Room >> US$8
Lunch >> K1,200
Dinner >> K1,650
Next...
Bagan in brown (sludge)
