A slice of village life >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 19

Oct 16: Night, Bagan

The sun came out of hiding in the afternoon. After an early morning drizzle, the light sunshine was perfect weather for us to continue our ruins ramble.

Today, Mr Khin Zaw could not drive us, so we got his friend instead. Earlier, this horse cart driver with an entrepreneurial bend told us that he had invested money made from his driving in another horse cart, which he now rented to his friend or cousin. This way, he was earning another steady income while giving work to another, who could not afford a cart of his own.

Mr Khin Zaw's replacement spoke little English, but he was gentle and earnest. We spent several idyllic hours riding and walking among the ruins.

I think we have enjoyed the best of both worlds in our two chauffeurs. The more energetic and gregarious Khin Zaw was affable company and a fount of local knowledge, accepting our sweets and snacks happily. He provided a very positive counterfoil to the relentless presence of intrusive touts at major attractions.

His friend was far more reserved, perhaps because he could not speak much English. However, on the day we valued our peace after days dodging hawkers and touts, his silent presence among the more tranquil ruins was very appreciated.

Away from the ruins, and because of the intermitten rain, we ended up spending a fair bit of time strolling around the village near our hotel. Tonight, our restaurant had a power failure. So we ate in cosy candle light. After dinner, we strolled some more.

Up the street on our way back to our hotel, someone had set up a TV. Aside from the TV's glow, there was little light. That did not deter the crowd that had gathered to watch the soap opera. Some simply squatted while others sat on low stools.

There were numerous bikes nearby. Many in the audience must have cycled here to watch TV. It was like watching a movie in our cinema. The chief difference was that, instead of a concrete roof with appropriate acoustics, this group enjoyed their movie under a canopy of the night sky. And instead of a hi-tech wide screen, they got their dose of pop culture from a small, black box with its inquisitive antenna pointed towards the heavens.

But, their enjoyment, judging from the absorbed attention all round, was no less. And across the street, a group huddled around a fire, enjoying dinner by moon light.

Budget (for two in US$ or kyat as indicated)

Room >> US$8
Horse cart (full-day) >> K3,000
Postcards & donation >> K760
Lunch >> K1,500
Dinner >> K2,000

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Murphy pays a visit