Dogged >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 46

Nov 23: Night, Ayuthaya

From Udon Thani, we took the overnight train to Ayathaya, the capital of Siam in the 13th-14th centuries. With the fall of the Khmer-influenced Sukhotai empire, the Siamese gained dominance over the land.

Trying to recall textbook history from school did not help me to sleep. And the conditions in fan class were no help either. This was the first time we booked seats in fan class. It was comfortably cool at night, but the lights remained on. Way too bright to snooze. Then, we were periodically distracted by the patrol, a man carrying a torch and handgun walking up and down the carriages.

Despite staying awake, we still managed to almost miss our stop. We were at the second last carriage and when our train pulled into the station in Ayuthaya at 5.20am, we could not see the sign with the station's name. Actually, the Ayuthaya station was so small that we did not see the station from our carriage!

Luckily, we proved to be fleetfooted when sufficiently motivated. And not a moment too soon, as the train started to pull out again. A station officer on the ground saw us and yelled for the train to stop. We were grateful and leapt out quickly before we became entertainment for bored insomniacs on board.

Ayuthaya is sprawling. The tuk-tuk drivers, unsurprisingly, overcharge as and when they can.

Drained after a couple bouts of futile haggling, we took to self-powered transport. Better to rely on our own feet than to be held ransom by voracious tuk-tuk drivers. Walking at our own pace, we were fortunate to see some interesting ruins.

The day would have been a great one if not for the dogs.

The canine menace was not confined to strays. In fact, our worst scare was from three dogs charging out of a house as we walked by. They rounded on us, barking and baring their teeth. And we were just passing by, walking on the edge of the road, more than a metre from the open gate.

The bo-chap (Singaporean colloquial expression meaning indifferent, cannot be bothered) owner, relaxing in her seat on the porch, just yelled at her dogs, but did not do anything else to restrain them. These dogs snapped at our heels for a few more metres before giving up the chase. Not fun at all.

Home for the next two days

PU Guesthouse, where we decided to hole up for the next couple of days, was interesting. It was like an extended terrace house, located on a fairly quiet lane lined with houses and small shops. It also operated on a bring-your-own-soap-and-toilet-paper basis. Occupancy was good and we could only get a warm box-like room downstairs, where we could hear the constant coming and going outside our door.

Then, the owner told us that someone was moving out of one of the more spacious rooms upstairs and offered us that room, which came with aircon, balcony and the princely sum of 500 baht.

We had not slept since yesterday. We were grimy from our all-night train ride. We had wasted one tuk-tuk ride and precious leg-power looking for accommodation in another part of town. Time for a little pampering. We quickly accepted the owner's offer.

Deal concluded, the nice owner told us we could bathe in the downstairs room while waiting for her staff to clean up the other room. Of course, we had to promise not to mess up the beds in this room!

Budget (for two in baht)

Nov 22
Lunch >> B60
Bread >> B27
Coffee >> B50
Shopping >> B399
Dinner >> B90
Tuk-tuk to train station >> B20

Nov 23
Breakfast >> B80
Tuk-tuk (two trips) >> B50
Room >> B500
H20 >> B10
Drinks >> B20
Lunch >> B40
Dinner >> B90
Ice-cream & doughnuts >> B47
Groceries >> B105.5

Next... A new destination

Much ado about... >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 45a

Addendum: Charoen Hotel to train station

Nov 21: Night, Udon Thani

Checking out of the hotel was hassle-free; getting a tuk-tuk to the train station for our overnight journey to Ayuthaya was another experience.

Dusk was changing to night and it was difficult to get a tuk-tuk. After waiting for 20 minutes (ample time to walk to the station) on the main road, one tuk-tuk finally pulled over.

There were two young men in the vehicle. The guide books are always warning about getting into a vehicle with more than one man on board. So, we were reluctant to negotiate the fare with the grinning guys.

But, it was getting late and there was no other tuk-tuk available. So, when one of the young men left his tuk-tuk and approached us, we told him we were going to the train station.

Oh dear! He could not speak English. Neither could his always-grinning pal. After trying various permutations of the words "train" and "station", we resorted to sign language and amateur acting.

But, I guess we were terrible actors. They could not understand and kept saying "airport?", which seemed to be the only English word they understood.

A sudden inspiration, and I ran back to the hotel. The helpful staff immediately wrote the Thai words for "train station" on a piece of paper and even taught me how to pronounce the words correctly.

Back I went to the tuk-tuk. The guys took one look at the paper and got very excited. "Ah, Tha Rot Fai! Rot Fai! Rot Fai!" Ha! Ha! Ha!

At last, they knew where we wanted to go! We reached the station in less than 10 minutes.

Assumptions

The tuk-tuk guys were helpful and friendly. They gamely persisted in trying to understand us even when the situation appeared hopeless.

But, they saw us waiting with our bags in front of a business hotel. I think they simply assumed that we were going to the airport, which was probably the destination for most foreign visitors on business. So, even when we mimicked the sound of trains and pointed in the general direction of the station, they remained convinced that we were going to the airport.

On our part, we could simply have shown them our train tickets, but we grew more desperate as our departure time drew nearer and simply forgot that flashing our tics should do the trick.

Also, we assume that it is potentially dangerous to get into a vehicle with more than just a male driver. A wise precaution, no doubt, but I wonder if the reverse is also true. Might not a driver feel safer with a companion, especially if he has to drive two burly males with large bags in a town full of foreigners?

Besides, I think some of them are just around for a joyride or two and to accompany the driver. It must be fairly boring to drive the same routes everyday.

This is a matter of trust and experience. Unfortunately, some rotten apples have spoilt the fruit in the barrel for the rest of us, drivers, friends and passengers.

Back

Among giants >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 45

Nov 21: Afternoon, Udon Thani

We had breakfast in Nong Khai before setting out for Sala Kaew Ku, the Buddha park on the outskirts of town. The scrambled eggs with ham were very good, but our starch intake was sadly restricted to the dainty toasts that accompanied our protein dish.

As we planned to leave for Udon Thani later in the morning, we were off to Sala Kaew Ku by 8.30am.

This Buddha park was smaller than her sister in Laos and very quiet in contrast. Besides us, there were only one or two other visitors within the compound. The stone sculptures, however, were as impressive and as imaginatively rendered.

Not intending to take too many photos, we did not bring an extra row of film for this excursion. And so, just midway through our walk, we discovered we were low on film and had to husband our remaining resources for the rest of our visit.

After a fairly whirlwind (by our speed anyway) tour of Sala Kaew Ku, we hurried back to the hotel. Our bags were already packed and we settled our bill quickly. Then, it was off to the bus station.

Alighting from our tuk-tuk, we saw a bus getting ready to move out. It was the Udon Thani bus! Some wild gesturing from the bus boy induced us to scramble up the vehicle and, by 10.20am, we were on our way to Udon Thani.

At Udon Thani, we walked from the chaotic bus station towards the eating and shopping places a stone's throw away. Unfortunately, we could not find a budget place we liked. We thought the accommodation choices looked rather crummy.

Eventualy, we 'upgraded' to the neat and trim Charoen Hotel, which seemed popular with businessmen and Thai families. Actually, we had walked into an even better-looking hotel, attracted by the lavish use of glass in its bright and airy atrium. The beautifully coiffured and attired staff were very polite and smiley, but regretably, they could not offer a room to Madam because the hotel was fully occupied for the night. Instead, they directed us to the Charoen Hotel.

At Charoen, we were shown a couple of rooms. We were indicated the one we liked, agreed on the price and discovered we got ourselves a deluxe room, which was three grades above the cheapest. Carpeted aircon room, ensuite bathroom with tub, cable TV, minibar and even an in-house swimming pool. Yup, we had moved up. Yes, indeed.

May as well enjoy the amenities while we are here.

Addendum: Annie's POV

Budget (for two baht)

Breakfast >> B130
Tuk-tuk to Sala KK >> B40
Entry >> B40
Tuk-tuk back to hotel >> B40
Tuk-tuk to bus station >> B30
Bus to Udon Thani >> B42
Tuk-tuk to hotel >> B40
Room >> B750
Tips >> B20
Lunch >> B65
Groceries >> B323.50
Train tics to Ayuthaya >> B512
Dinner >> B119
Breakfast (for next day) >> B57

Next... Overnight in fan class

Man-made lady >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 44

Nov 20: Night, Nong Khai

Nong Khai is quieter than expected. It is not really a sleepy town, but we find the place rather boring. There is more to do and see across the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge in Vientiane.

We thought we had to pay a fee at the immigration counter on both sides of the crossing. There were booths collecting money at the Lao side, but when we reached the head of the queue, the lady manning the counter told me, "No need to pay!"

She then waved us away. Rather puzzling because I saw others before and after us paying the same woman. Perhaps ASEAN citizens are exempted? A bureaucratic mystery!

In Nong Khai, we decided to try the guesthouses by the river. One of them, Rim Khong, looked cosy and the people were friendly, but shower and toilet facilities were communal. Not what we wanted. We moved away from the river area after a few more futile inquiries.

Now, we were in a bit of a bind as we had not done much homework before hitting Nong Khai. We did not even get a map of the town. But, since we were in a part of town where food, drink and guesthouses seemed abundant, I reckoned we should be able to settle in a lodging of our liking soon.

As we walked down one of the lanes, we passed by a middle-aged Caucasian, who looked like he knew where he was going. Since it was not very enjoyable trudging in the afternoon heat with our bags in tow, I stopped him to ask if he could point us to another area nearby with accommodation.

The nice man walked us to Pantawee, where he had stayed before. On the way, he told us that he was waiting to meet his Lao girlfriend, whom he was trying to marry. He said with a somewhat resigned air, "But, Lao nationals could not have relationship with foreigners without government approval. So we have to apply for a permit."

Not knowing what to say in response to such a tale, we walked on, waiting for the man to continue. Then, he added wryly, "You had to pay some money to process such paperwork. Or you might wait forever!"

At the Pantawee, the man left us with a wave. The small hotel looked bright and clean, so we entered the lobby. Enthroned behind the counter was the lady manager, impeccably made up. The picture of a savvy businesswoman was completed by a smart three-piece pants-suit. When she gestured energetically to her staff and instructed them in low, smooth tones, they were quick to attend to matters.

Only, when facing the female boss asking about a room for us, I realised she was a man. Statuesque, flamboyant - an eye-catching display of womanhood!

She was polite and professional and got an employee to show us a few rooms. We decided on one and settled in.

Visual bombardment

This has got to be one of the weirdest rooms I have stayed in.

On the one hand, it is a clean and bright but unremarkable room - bed, small table with two chairs, small fridge and dressing table by the door of the ensuite bathroom.

Then, we look at the walls.

Pictures everywhere. Of young, nubile maidens and a good-looking guy or two, here and there. They cover most of the walls of our room and the inside of the front door as well. For a moment, we wonder if we have checked into one of those by-the-hour establishments!

Once we dropped our bags, we scrutinised the impressive display of photogenic models. Everyone was primped, powdered and power-suited. If some of them changed the colours of their suits and skirts into a shade more muted (such as fiery red to cool blue), they would not look out of place for a job interview with a staid and established company.

Oh, look! The candidates had even pasted their resume on the walls. According to their CVs, they were well-qualified to provide traditional massages, hair-dressing services, etc. And in case guests should miss the wall advertisements, there were also booklets in laminated pages extolling the excellent services offered by the hotel and its talented staff.

As the wall decor was rather overpowering, we escaped from our room to explore town. When we came back from our stroll later, we saw our lady manager in a more relaxed setting. She was filing her nails and chatting with staff and guests.

Transvestites seem to be accepted as part of Thai society. The more outlandish members are often stared at, but people are not antagonistic. Rather, they look amused at the display of such flamboyant antics. Still, I wonder how deep this accpetance is when I read articles in the newspapers highlighting passionate legal debates on what to label transvestites on their IDs.

Budget (for two in kip and baht)

Breakfast >> K15,000
Tea >> K14,000
Tuk-tuk to bridge >> B150
Shuttle bus (across bridge) >> K5000
Tuk-tuk to guesthouse >> B40
Room >> B350
Lunch >> B60
Ice-cream >> B20
Dinner >> B40
Milk >> B20

Next... Buddha across the river

Peter, park and pest >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 43

Nov 19: Afternoon, Vientiane

It has become very hot again. We do not feel like leaving Laos, so we are staying another day.

We have also moved back to Peter's Dragon Lodge, after one day in a swankier hotel. For one thing, Peter and staff are less smarmy. And Peter lets us have the pick of rooms available.

When we complained about slightly danky bathrooms, he listened sympathetically and offered another room. We did not tell him, like many typically uneffusive Singaporeans, but we appreciated his unobstrusive care and concern. When we left for Pakse on the night bus, a few nights ago, he sat with us in his lobby cafe until it was time for us to leave. (As far as we know, it is uncommon, at least until recently, to travel along Lao highways at night because of poor roads, fear of landslides and bandits.)

Once we moved back into his guesthouse, he wasted no time in asking us about the new bus service. Peter was gathering information so he could pass useful bits on to other travellers staying with him. I was loitering in the lobby when I saw a flyer about Tum Tum Cheng on the noticeboard.

Noticing my interest, Peter asked us about the Luang Prabang guesthouse and wondered if he should recommend it to his lodgers. He also asked us about Elisabeth, who ran the guesthouse with her Lao husband. We heard from other lodgers that he was an accomplished dancer of some repute in the country.

We told Peter that we met Elisabeth only once and she was calm and soft-spoken, even when we wanted to bargain for a lower price for our room! It was most difficult to banter about money with such a dignified lady! Our room was spacious, the bathroom was bright and clean and the staff was friendly without being intrusive. The price, though, was a steep US$25 for an upstairs double.

Lonely Planet to the rescue

Yesterday, we went to the Buddha Park, located on the outskirts of Vientiane. In the morning, we walked to the station near the Talat Sao (market) for the one-hour bus ride to the park.

The minibus was already packed when we boarded at the Vientiane terminal, but it was a happy bus. People made way and made room for each other while chatting and snacking merrily.

Then, a tanned-looking man, lips and nails painted blue-black, hair dusted with white flakes, ears pierced by dangling earrings, come on board with a dirty bag across his shoulders. In his right hand, he carried a metal box. It looked like an old car battery. This, he shoved under one of the seats. Then he moved to stand in the corner where I sat. Annie stood next to me.

The girls seating behind us stopped talking.

The bus was crowded. I saw the man leaning against a generously endowed middle-age woman. The woman quietly shifted away. When he swayed close to me, the white flakes from his hair drifted like snow on to my arm.

Unhappy already, I made exaggerated, sweeping, gestures in his direction, flickling the white stuff off my arm. As the packed bus jogged along, more flakes rained down and I become became more and more fed-up. The guy was now swaying and leaning against several people, including Annie. When I looked up at her, I saw my friend ready to do violence.

The silence behind continued. Even those immediately in front of us had fallen quiet.

Luckily, several people hopped off at the next stop. With no excuse to squeeze against the ladies, the man moved a little forward, to the space next to the seat in front of mine. That was the end of the matter, I thought. The three girls behind appeared to relax marginally.

Then, it happened again.

He moved back to his favourite corner. This time, we knew for sure he was leaning and rubbing deliberately against the women because the bus was not as packed as before.

Annie told the man off in English and he moved away from her after staring at her. The other passengers suddenly realised that the two women in the corner were foreigners, even if they looked like locals.

Out of luck with Annie, he decided to try with me. Before he could lean his bum on my shoulder, I whipped out my trusty Lonely Planet: Laos, planted the tome flat on his bum and pushed him away. Startled, he moved backwards and the two of us told him loudly not to touch us.

This spectacle was finally enough to jolt the other watchful men into action. Two of them turned to the man and spoke quietly to him. They looked very stern and disapproving. Then, they stood in front of us and the girls in the back row, maintaining a very respectable gap even when the bus bumped along a rough patch.

The weird man finally moved to the front of the bus. He alighted soon after. The girls were still quiet, but by the time the bus reached their stop at the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, they were cheerfully chatting again.

We, like the girls, did not allow that man to spoil our trip to the Buddha Park. We nearly missed our stop, though.

It was a good thing I saw the sign for the park and stood up frantically. By then, there were only four passengers (including us) left, so the driver realised immediately that we wanted to alight.

We were enthralled by the very interesting sculptures in the Buddha Park. Not only did the works appear to represent a melting pot of religious expression, some of the sculptures were so huge that we could walk in, up or through them!

Who said size did not matter?

Almost as intriguing was the sight of monks of all ages strolling happily around the park. Admiring the sculptures, posing for photos and just walking around, these oranged-robed monks added splashes of vibrant colour against the stone-grey monuments.

After our excursion, we took the bus, this time without incident, back to Vientiane. The view of the Friendship Bridge from our bus was an impressive one. But, it was getting very hot and we could not wait to get into the shade back in Vientiane.

The heat had wilted our appetite so we opted for a lunch of spring rolls. Done Vietnamese style, they came with lots of vegetables. It was very messy but so much fun to eat them! And most yummy!

Budget (for two in kip and USD)

Room >> US$15
Breakfast >> K14,000
Lunch >> K16,000
Drink >> K3,000
Dinner >> K18,000
Supper >> K2,000

Next... Who's the man? Who's the woman?