Man-made lady >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 44

Nov 20: Night, Nong Khai

Nong Khai is quieter than expected. It is not really a sleepy town, but we find the place rather boring. There is more to do and see across the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge in Vientiane.

We thought we had to pay a fee at the immigration counter on both sides of the crossing. There were booths collecting money at the Lao side, but when we reached the head of the queue, the lady manning the counter told me, "No need to pay!"

She then waved us away. Rather puzzling because I saw others before and after us paying the same woman. Perhaps ASEAN citizens are exempted? A bureaucratic mystery!

In Nong Khai, we decided to try the guesthouses by the river. One of them, Rim Khong, looked cosy and the people were friendly, but shower and toilet facilities were communal. Not what we wanted. We moved away from the river area after a few more futile inquiries.

Now, we were in a bit of a bind as we had not done much homework before hitting Nong Khai. We did not even get a map of the town. But, since we were in a part of town where food, drink and guesthouses seemed abundant, I reckoned we should be able to settle in a lodging of our liking soon.

As we walked down one of the lanes, we passed by a middle-aged Caucasian, who looked like he knew where he was going. Since it was not very enjoyable trudging in the afternoon heat with our bags in tow, I stopped him to ask if he could point us to another area nearby with accommodation.

The nice man walked us to Pantawee, where he had stayed before. On the way, he told us that he was waiting to meet his Lao girlfriend, whom he was trying to marry. He said with a somewhat resigned air, "But, Lao nationals could not have relationship with foreigners without government approval. So we have to apply for a permit."

Not knowing what to say in response to such a tale, we walked on, waiting for the man to continue. Then, he added wryly, "You had to pay some money to process such paperwork. Or you might wait forever!"

At the Pantawee, the man left us with a wave. The small hotel looked bright and clean, so we entered the lobby. Enthroned behind the counter was the lady manager, impeccably made up. The picture of a savvy businesswoman was completed by a smart three-piece pants-suit. When she gestured energetically to her staff and instructed them in low, smooth tones, they were quick to attend to matters.

Only, when facing the female boss asking about a room for us, I realised she was a man. Statuesque, flamboyant - an eye-catching display of womanhood!

She was polite and professional and got an employee to show us a few rooms. We decided on one and settled in.

Visual bombardment

This has got to be one of the weirdest rooms I have stayed in.

On the one hand, it is a clean and bright but unremarkable room - bed, small table with two chairs, small fridge and dressing table by the door of the ensuite bathroom.

Then, we look at the walls.

Pictures everywhere. Of young, nubile maidens and a good-looking guy or two, here and there. They cover most of the walls of our room and the inside of the front door as well. For a moment, we wonder if we have checked into one of those by-the-hour establishments!

Once we dropped our bags, we scrutinised the impressive display of photogenic models. Everyone was primped, powdered and power-suited. If some of them changed the colours of their suits and skirts into a shade more muted (such as fiery red to cool blue), they would not look out of place for a job interview with a staid and established company.

Oh, look! The candidates had even pasted their resume on the walls. According to their CVs, they were well-qualified to provide traditional massages, hair-dressing services, etc. And in case guests should miss the wall advertisements, there were also booklets in laminated pages extolling the excellent services offered by the hotel and its talented staff.

As the wall decor was rather overpowering, we escaped from our room to explore town. When we came back from our stroll later, we saw our lady manager in a more relaxed setting. She was filing her nails and chatting with staff and guests.

Transvestites seem to be accepted as part of Thai society. The more outlandish members are often stared at, but people are not antagonistic. Rather, they look amused at the display of such flamboyant antics. Still, I wonder how deep this accpetance is when I read articles in the newspapers highlighting passionate legal debates on what to label transvestites on their IDs.

Budget (for two in kip and baht)

Breakfast >> K15,000
Tea >> K14,000
Tuk-tuk to bridge >> B150
Shuttle bus (across bridge) >> K5000
Tuk-tuk to guesthouse >> B40
Room >> B350
Lunch >> B60
Ice-cream >> B20
Dinner >> B40
Milk >> B20

Next... Buddha across the river