Pumping by climbing >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 16

Oct 13: Night, Bagan

Those who are looking to add a new dimension to their fitness routine should try rambling amongst the ruins. When you reach your destination, set your heart racing by hiking up those steep and narrow stairs on the sides and interior of the temples. Bring a torch because certain parts are quite dark.

After one particularly challenging stretch, my muscles were clenched and quivering. But, we often found our reward at the end of all that huffing and puffing. In this case, a wonderful vista of Bagan greeted us from the open terrace. A fine view, indeed, and the more Annie and I walked and climbed, the fitter we would become at the end of our stay. Another fine bounty!

Bagan is very spread out. Many of the ruins are too far to walk to. Those who bike should hire one to give them added mobility. Otherwise, bargain hard with your favourite horse cart driver, a rather time-consuming activity as we found out.

Once we got our horse cart, I discovered that clambering up and down the vehicle was a mini-exercise in itself for a five-footer. The front seat next to the driver was especially high. But, once we got used to this mode of travelling, we grew comfortable on the padded seats and even enjoyed the rolling gait of the cart as the horse 'clip-clop' along.

Our driver was Mr Khin Zaw, a 26-year-old enterprising and gregarious chap. He also proved to be fairly knowledgeable about the major sights. He kept up a chatty yet relevant commentary along the way and never hurried us at each stop. When we could, we left our cart to wander around (and, yes, struggle up steep stairs). It was an idyllic day.

Footwear: At every ruin with staff, we had to remove our shoes outside the compound (not outside the temple) and walk barefoot all over the sandy ground and floor. Few of the places were clean; there were bird droppings, ants and pebbles. Once into the temple, it was cleaner, but by then, everyone had also trekked in dirt from outside.

Before this day-long excursion, we did a quick look-see of the nearest ruins, those we could manage on foot. After that eye-opener, we ditched our shoes for slippers for the next few days.

Quick-dry slippers are much easier to wash and dry than shoes (You don't want to coat the inside of your shoes with mud.). And they are also infinitely more convenient to slip in and out of. Of course, they have less grip compared to sturdier walking shoes.

Touts: At all the major attractions, souvenir sellers and children hounded us. Some of the more audacious sellers set up shop in the interior of the temples! The kids followed us around and asked for sweets. Both children and adults asked for money!

Snakes: On our first visit to the ruins, a snake dropped off the wall above. I sensed movement from the corner of one eye and looked up to see a coiled bulk hurtling towards me. As I leapt away, the startled snake hit the ground and slithered into the grass. Eeek! But, I think it might have been a harmless reptile.

Budget (for two in US$ or kyat as indicated)

Room >> US$8 + Lunch >> K1,250 + Postcards (4x) + donation >> K360 + Dinner >> K1,500 + Horse cart (per day) >> K3,000

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