Gateway to ancient splendour >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 14

Oct 11: Night, Bagan

The ferry ride to Bagan was lovely. Glimpses of life along the Irrawaddy - women washing clothes and kids bathing and waving to passing boats. Very placid. In the distance, the ruins looked so stately, dignified. Some glittered under the sun.

Bagan looked very spread out, even from the river. As our boat approached the jetty at Nyaung-Oo, we saw some of the ruins. Old stones thrill me the way a Birkenstock or Brazil-versus-England football match excite some people, I guess. But first, to disembark.

The jetty at Nyaung-Oo was just a few planks put together to form a rickety bridge to connect us to shore. Then, it was up some steep and uneven steps to a desk under a tree. There, we were told to pay the US$10 entrance fee.

After that, it was time to deal with the local transport racketeers. Unsurprisingly, prices to town was controlled and inflated. The other option was a long walk to civilisation; footpaths leading somewhere were clearly visible. Some locals, hefting packs of something (I can't recall what, being too busy organising transport and bargaining.) on their backs, trudged on these paths and soon disappeared into the undergrowth. A couple of the budget-minded backpackers also headed off in that direction.

Meanwhile, those who had arranged their accommodation and ride into town through their travel agents had already roared off in their 'gilded' carriages. After strenuous bargaining, Annie and I piled into a cab with a group of backpackers, an excellent way to spread out the cost.

After settling into a guesthouse, we took a walk around the village, then an early dinner and thence to bed. Even though this is tourist season, there are few tourists around. We have bumped into the same few several times already, including some of those from our boat trip.

Budget (for two in US$ or kyat as indicated)

Taxi to pier >> K1,500
Coffee & tea onboard ferry to Bagan >> K400
Entrance to Bagan >> US$20
Taxi to guesthouse >> K1,000
Room >> US$8
Map of Bagan >> K300
Biscuits >> K150
Dinner >> K1,750
Rickshaw >> K200

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