Tales of a city I >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 49

Dec 1: Night, Bangkok

We are getting used to city life again. That means, for us anyway, loads of shopping and eating, with no pretense to sightseeing. I would have also dosed up on the offerings from the goggle box, except that the small TV secured high up in one corner of our room in Wendy House was not very conducive to comfortable lounging when watching TV. So I gave up on the TV and went shopping with Annie instead.

Wendy House is a no frills but clean guesthose, tucked near the end of a narrow street, behind Siam Square. When we arrived a couple of days ago, we checked out A-One first, but was told they were full for the night. Then, we decided on the dazzlingly white Bed & Breakfast. Our reception was less than dazzling, however.

The woman manning the reception was very unfriendly and only grudgingly agreed to show us a room. She threw the keys to her staff and indicated us. As we moved to follow the staff, one of the guests from the breakfast nook asked her something. Immediately, she was all smiles, her tone oozing honey in reply. Coincidentally (or not), we noted that the few people having breakfast or a drink were all Caucasians.

Thoroughly disgusted, we gave the room a cursory glance and went back to the lobby to let the woman know we were leaving. She took the keys back from her staff and ignored us, turning to banter with another guest. I could feel a few eyes from the cafe corner trailing us out.

After this rather inhospitable experience, we tried our luck next door, at Wendy House. There were two women manning the counter. They eyed us stonily when we asked them if they had a room.

What is worse? To be treated with outright unfriendliness and dismissed like trash, or to be regarded with suspicion and examined like a bug under a microscope?

Just as I was about to give up and suggest to Annie we go somewhere less trying, one of the ladies asked to see our passports. When they saw our passports, their demeanour changed.

Suddenly, the twin arctic blasts thawed and the ladies even managed a smile or two. One of them showed us a few rooms. The stairs were taxing. But, eventually, we chose a corner one, with wide windows overlooking the street.

As the days went by and we got used to each other, Annie and I came to appreciate the no-nonsense and brisk service provided by Wendy House. The counter staff were very watchful about who entered and exited the guesthouse.

All in all, this looks like one of the sturdier options along the street for women travellers, especially those on their own.

Traffic woes

Yesterday, we were stuck in a traffic jam while getting back from Central Ladprao to Mo Chit BTS station. Earlier, we alighted at Mo Chit, intending to visit Chatuchak Market, but took a detour to Central Ladprao for some aircon shopping after we stumbled upon a notice announcing a free shuttle service to the shopping complex.

By the time our BTS shuttle bus got out of the traffic snarl and dropped us at Mo Chit station, it was rather late. So we headed back to Siam Square and visited Chatuchak today.

Children of lesser gods

Having visited Chatuchak on a previous trip, we were there again on nostalgia. Besides, in this monster of a market, we were sure to 'discover' new areas we missed out the last time.

This time, however, the prevailing impression for me was the presence of beggars, prostrate on the paths leading in and out of the market. Some of the men had only one leg and were lying on the road. One seemed to have a wound (bandaged) on his chest.

We also saw beggars in the shopping areas. Yesterday, we walked past many beggars lining the bridge between World Trade Centre and Gaysorn. These were mainly children and women carrying babies.

Budget (for two in baht)

Nov 29
Breakfast >> B20 + Train (Bangkok Noi) >> B50 + Taxi to guesthouse >> B80 + Room >> B500 + Lunch >> B120 + BTS 3-day pass >> B560 + Cinema >> B200 + Postcard >> B7 + Dinner >> B90 + Supper >> B55 + Groceries >> B29 + Breakfast (next day's) >> B32

Nov 30
Room >> B500 + Coffee >> B70 + Bread >> B16 + Lunch >> B60 + Titbits >> B67 + Dinner >> B341 + Groceries >> B109.75

Dec 1
Room >> B500 + Lunch >> B64 + Drinks >> B30 + Tea >> B78 + Newspapers >> B20 + Shopping >> B2228 + Dinner >> B234 + Groceries >> B19 (minus B50 gift voucher) + Cake >> B23

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