Festive That Luang >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 42

Nov 17: Evening, Vientiane

It rained. Some roads turned muddy. Other roads had potholes filled with muddy water. It became less dusty though and it was much cooler to walk.

Wat That Luang was very festive. Even before we reached the temple grounds, banners and streamers in all sorts of colors - red, green yellow, orange and pink - decorated the approach.

Within the temple grounds, there was continuous chanting and religious music. Many people came in groups, with friends and family. Everyone wore new clothes, the men more sombre in their shirt-and-trouser outfits while many women chose a vibrant ensemble to go with their sparkling accessories of gold and precious stones.

None, however, could match the rich, gleaming gold of the central stupa, its spires rising majestically into the cloudy sky. People gathered at the broad, square base of the stupa, offering incense and prayers. Smoke, from candles and joss sticks, and the not-unpleasant smell of incense permeated the surroundings.

Outside, many visitors thronged the huge food and fun fair that surrounded the temple complex and its suburbs. Standing out, among the palm trees, was the ferris wheel. A stone-throw away, people milled around the multitude of stalls selling food, drinks, clothes and sundries, their shopping enlivened by loud pop music.

Further away from the temple complex were rancuous game stalls offering more energetic entertainment, such as hoop tossing. For a small fee, a participant got three to five small rings or hoops. Throw (aiming was optional, it seemed) one of those hoops towards the generous spread of prizes, such as bottled drinks and cans of beer.

A whoop of delight came from a nearby stall. Someone had snagged a coveted prize.

Budget (for two in kip and USD)

Oct 17
Room >> US$15
Tuk-tuk to That Luang >> K5,000
Lunch >> K20,000
Entry to Si Saket + donation >> K5,000
Dinner >> K20,000
Dessert >> K2,000

Oct 18
Room >> US$15
Breakfast >> K16,000
Bus to Buddha Park >> K3,000
Entry to Buddha Park >> K6,000
Bus to Vientiane >> K3,000
Lunch >> K14,000
Tea & coffee powder >> K58,000
Postcards >> K3,000
Titbits >> K12,000
Mend shoes >> K6,000
Dinner >> K24,000
Supper & beer >> K12,000

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