Heat and dust I >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 38

Nov 13: Afternoon, Pakse

We took the night bus from Vientiane to Pakse last night, a very comfy ride.

I think this is the first time such a service is being tried out. This is, naturally, more expensive than the no frills 'chicken' buses plying the country, whose services we have relied on so far. It used to be too dangerous to travel at night. Bandits, UXO, very bad roads that could send a bus load hurtling into a ravine, and the ever present danger of rockslides especially during monsoon season: the kinds of hazards that made people very reluctant to tempt Fate.

We hoped that the introduction of this service meant that the current situation had become more conducive to travelling - less problem, more business. We took it as a good sign that most of the passengers in our bus were locals.

More private enterprises seems to be entering the market. This new bus service is one example.

By paying lots of US dollars (steep for Lao buses, anyway), we got two very plush armchair-type of seats to sink into. Everything, from the exterior and tyres to the interior, was spanking clean and almost gleaming. There was even a toilet on board. When we took the cheaper local buses, loo stops usually meant hiding behind a rock (free) in the great outdoors or a foul spot (paid) in someone's backyard.

After we boarded, the very nicely dressed stewardess gave out packets of peanuts and bottled water. The snacks were followed by a tasty dinner of rice with chicken and vegetables. Then came the dreaded video. It was some martial arts flick dubbed in Lao. Also, all announcements were in Lao. Very little English was spoken.

Annie and I don't sleep well (often, not at all) during long bus and plane trips. We both agree that we sleep better on the sleeping berth of a train. I think the moving train's hypnotic rhythm agrees with us.

At 2 am, the bus pulled into a deserted station. The driver killed the engine and joined his crew at the side of the bus, looking at one of the tyres. I could see them from the window because they were on my side. After some discussion and more looking, one of them walked off. One went for a smoke.

Then, they gathered again. The crew started to change the tyre. Work stopped. More discussion. One went off for a smoke. Work started again. This routine went on for over an hour. Finally, we set off, to continue our journey to Pakse.

Last night, Peter of Dragon Lodge sat and chatted with us. We did not have to leave the guesthouse till rather late because the bus office was just a short walk down the street. Peter told us that there were, currently, some 20 to 30 Singaporeans working or doing business in Laos. He, of course, knew many of them. I think he said there was some club that the Singaporeans had formed as a means of meeting fellow countrymen. Occasionally, he also helped with arrangements for excursions or exchanges organised by Singapore schools or organisations to Laos.

We had not been able to book a ride back from Pakse in Vientiane. For some mysterious reason, the bus office insisted that we should check with the Pakse office for the return trip. So if we failed to buy two tickets back to Vientiane, we might break our return journey at Savannakhet, stay a night or two before going back to to the Lao capital. On arrival at the small Pakse office, we were not surprised to find out that the night express we came in was fully booked for the return journey the coming Friday night.

We have been resisting the suggestion from fellow travellers to go to Vietnam and Cambodia. Savannakhet is one of the border crossings from Laos to Vietnam. And now, we will be stopping in Savannakhet. We might also meet the Sarahs again as they were heading to Savannakhet and Vietnam after that. Hmm, that border is looking really tempting. Temptingly within reach...

But, more on Pakse. This is one dusty town. Except for the main thoroughfare, paved like Route 13, the other roads have not been paved. Looks like our trip to Champasak may be a more bracing one than we expect, although I'm sure the intertown roads will be in better condition.

However, our anticipated trip to Wat Phou has temporarily grounded to a halt.

Earlier today, we found out that it was rather inconvenient to take public transport to Champasak's Wat Phou. A day trip was not feasible because it sounded so rushed and iffy. We had no intention of being stranded in Champasak as we did not feel like staying the night there.

And we gave up trying to charter a car or to join a tour after futile attempts visiting a few travel agencies around town. First, we only got to see the general model of car (but not the actual car we would be taking) and then we were quoted high rates in US$. The one agency that quoted us in Baht was cheaper than those singing their prices in US$.

When a budget room for two with bathroom and hot water costs US$6 a night and a double in the Champasak Palace goes for US$20 a night, it is a little too expensive to hire a car for several hours for US$25-50!

Just as we were considering giving up on Wat Phou, we ran into Wendy, an acquaintance from our Huay Xai-Luang Prabang boat ride. I asked if she was interested in Wat Phou. Guess what she said? She and a few other friends were thinking of visiting the ruins too!

They were staying at a guesthouse we had dropped by earlier to ask about its Champasak excursion. I had been drawn to an advertisement offering good rates for minivan hire. Now, it looked like we would have at least five people to share the cost of chartering a minivan (350,000 Kip or US$35).

Hooray! Wat Phou is back on our itinerary!

Budget (for two in kip)

Room >> K60,000
Lunch >> K13,000
Drinks >> K2,000
Cakes + drinks >> K7,000
Dinner >> K49,000

Next... Water woes