A town called 'Savan >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 32

Nov 5: Night, Phonsavan

Cold. Dusty.

Great views of the land from Luang Prabang to Phonsavan, though. The road winded up, down and around mountains. Except for a short section, it was paved.

Along the way, we saw signs of recent landslides. Groups of labourers were clearing broken branches and loose rocks by the road.

For a stretch of the journey, we were thoroughly unentertained by a couple of boorish young Lao men. They took up a lot of space. One took off his shoes and prop his feet on the seat. They ate and littered. After dirtying one seat, they changed to another. The women on board were so much nicer.

Phonsavan is one main-street town. The place has a very cowboy feel, dusty with a fringe of something untamed.

Mechanics in the garage shops lolled by slumbering engines and machine parts in the desultory afternoon.

Rows of motorbikes lined one side of the street. A hulking tattooed man suddenly appeared between the bikes.

Near the roundabout, and outside and opposite the bus shack (I can't call it a station), well-travelled taxis awaited custom.

And within the bus compound, itinerant food sellers peddled steamed buns, sliced fruits and other daily necessities.

We have been travelling for a while now. Been on the road for about six weeks. Without the myriad distractions of the city, Annie and I have easily slipped into an early-to-bed, early-to-rise habit. And we have been enjoying the sweet, crisp air of many an early morning.

Unfortunately, the air in Phonsavan is not so good. But, we have not walked beyond the main street area. Perhaps we shall do so tomorrow. The rest of 'Savan awaits.

Lost in translation: an episode in a Phonsavan diner, in Waiting.

Budget (for two in kip and USD)

Nov 4
Room >> US$25
Boat >> US$5
Pak Ou entry >> K16,000
Lunch >> K5,000
Bus (LP to Phonsavan) >> K164,000
Dinner >> K29,000

Nov 5
Jumbo to LP's Southern Bus Station >> K10,000
Breakfast >> K5,000
Toilet (2x) >> K4,000
Jumbo to guesthouse >> K3,500
Room >> US$6
Oranges >> K1,000
Dinner >> K16,000

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