Border town >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 27

Oct 28: Night, Chiang Khong

Our day did not start well at all. We were unable to buy tickets to Chiang Khong the night before. People at the Chiang Rai bus station's ticketing office were unhelpful. They could not even tell us when we should come back tomorrow.

It was drizzling when we left our guesthouse this morning. Our lady proprietor was driving out and she gave us a lift to the bus station. When we got there, it was still not possible to buy tickets. Perhaps there was no bus today? We could not tell because everyone just shook their heads. Giving up on the ticketing office, we asked other passengers.

In the end, we found a small bus leaving for Chiang Khong near a quieter side of the station. The vehicle was old but clean. There was no space to leave our bags where we sat, so we stowed them in the empty space before the last row of seats, across the open exit of the bus.

But, we did not have to worry about our bags. The conductor was very nice. When it rained, he made sure our bags stay dry.

The ride was scenic. From city to suburbs to farms to green gorges, the roads got narrower and less paved as the outdoors became more rural.

Chiang Khong is a one main-road town, compact and very managable on foot. The road is well used. Dust flies whenever a trading truck thunders past, a regular occurrence during the day. But, just metres beyond that main road, the noise recedes.

Behind the foliage, another Chiang Khong exists.

Chickens peck the ground diligently. Wooden fence pairs with waist-high hedges of bougainvillea and other flora. People stroll around in shirt and sarong. The muted rumble of a motorbike wafts by occasionally from smaller roads leading into the interior.

Tammila, our guesthouse, is leafy, rich with the smell of earth. Steps leading down to the guesthouse also take us closer to the river, away from the industry of the main road.

We are staying in a bungalow of wood and bamboo. Our 'ensuite' toilet is outside, a concrete afterthought. Fronting our room and loo is our balcony. The view is splendid and the peace, priceless. No cars, no TVs, no cell phones. Just night sounds from active nocturnal denizens, a world (or two) away from our home in Singapore.

Also see Huts & houses.

Budget (for two in baht)

Bus to Chiang Khong >> B84
Breakfast >> B60
Room >> B300
Tuk-tuk >> B20
Lunch + drinks >> B110
Tea + Muffins >> B40
Dinner >> B125
Drinks >> B30

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Laos from the balcony