Bureaucracy, blackout & bluster >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 10

Oct 6: Night, Yangon

It had been raining heavily in the City of Angels since afternoon. The sky was dark, pregnant with clouds. Leaving Bangkok's Don Muang airport later in the day, our flight to Yangon was bumpy and unsettling. For the first 20 minutes, the lights in the plane were off and no one was allowed to leave their seats, not even to go to the toilet.

My first view of Myanmar from the window of our plane was of a lush, green land. A thick, milky brown river (the Irrawaddy?) snaked through this land, with a network of thin streams spreading out like branches across the earth. Only when we were almost landing did I see paved roads, cars and street lights.

When we touched down, everywhere was dark and drizzling. It wasn't even 7pm yet. At Immigration, we politely agreed that we wanted to change US$200 into FECs (Foreign Exchange Certificates) EACH. Yes, according to official regulations.

Oh, but you need only change $200 FOR BOTH, said the staff. We replied smilingly that it was OK, we would change $400. We had already planned to use the FECs to pay for our lodgings, transport and entrance fees. So all smiles, and we were soon through Immigration. Some backpackers were still arguing about the FECs, which looked like pieces of monopoly money.

On to Customs. And our first blackout in the country.

The building went dark for several minutes. I held on to my bag and sneaked a look towards the runway outside. No lights either. Simultaneously, we started to fumble for the torchlights in our bags. From now on, I'm carrying one in my daypack or in the front pouch of my bag.

From the airport, we shared a taxi with an Australian couple, David and Tutii, to downtown Yangon and, hopefully, a place to sleep. However, our first choice did not work out and we continued our accommodation hunt. We saw two more, each in worse condition than the previous. All the places had varying degrees of a danky smell. Annie said it was because the rooms had no window.

At the second place, the proprietor raved and ranted at us when we asked for cheaper rooms. Inexplicably, he then gave us hot tea, before raving some more. We gave the place up as a lost cause when we realised he did not even have a room left to let for the night!

At the third place, everyone at the front desk looked at us like we had three horns, two tails and six eyes (each) when we stepped into their hotel. So, okay, we were dripping a little. It was still raining after all.

In the end, the Aussies decided to stay the night there. We did not like this place at all. So we took a taxi back to our first choice, which was more expensive, but much cleaner. The people there were also friendly and warm. They shaved off a few dollars from the room rate and threw in breakfast.

Aiyoh! Budget accommodation has, so far, been expensive and mostly not value for money. But, Yangon is the capital city after all. I expect many things to cost more.

Budget (for two in baht, US$ or kyat as indicated)

Thailand
Breakfast >> B90 + Newspapers (2x) >> B40
+ Lunch >> B249 + Phonecard >> B50
+ Dessert >> B35

Myanmar
Taxi (from airport) >> US$2 + Taxi >> K1,800
+ Room >> US$15

Next... Yangon walk-a-bout