One more amazing meal >> Bali 08

Going home today, so we decided to treat ourselves to one last good local meal at Warung Biah Biah.

The cosy and quaint restaurant (mud walls, etched artwork, hewn wood furniture) had friendly staff. We ordered a combination of Balinese dishes with rice. The food came, charmingly presented on leaves fashioned into cute, mini-plates. The rice has a faintly woodsy taste since it was cooked over charcoal fire. This was one of the most enjoyable meals we had although the bubuh injin was a disappointment.

Then we had to take the dreaded Perama bus back to the airport. Not much choice since a car / taxi cost six times more! Luckily for us, the bus back was air-con and in very good condition, with curtains to shade us from the afternoon sun and only half-filled. ^_^



So we’ve come to the conclusion that the type of buses you get really depend on your luck.

We decided to buy some titbits at the airport since the prices were ‘fixed’. After picking up the items we wanted and mentally calculating the total amount, we approached the counter. We found it strange that the staff was using a calculator to add up the amount instead of scanning the bar codes.

Imagine our surprise when the total amount exceeded our estimate by over 10,000 rupiah! Surely our math could not be so bad? We asked for a receipt since the staff had torn off the price tags. The lady cashier was very reluctant to do so but we insisted. Instead of giving us a printed receipt, it was handwritten so nothing was recorded in the cash system.



Before leaving the shop, we compared the prices on our receipt with the items on display in the shop, which had price tags on them. We discovered that they overcharged us by 10,000 rupiah for one of the items! When we questioned the staff, she was very quick to claim that the item was on offer and refunded us the 10,000 immediately, plus another 3,000 from the other items bought.



Of all the scams / cheats that we’ve encountered so far, this has really got to take the cake! Do they really think tourists are so gullible that nobody will notice an extra 13,000 rupiah? And we thought it was ok to buy things at the airport since prices are ‘fixed’…

But, we did not want the incident to sour our memories of this Bali trip, so issued settled, we went for a drink and spent our last half hour in Bali recalling our favourite moments of the past week.




That's all for Bali. Next >> On a loop - Mae Hong Son to Pai to Chiang Mai

That Singaporean accent >> Bali 07

Today, we decided to attempt one last walk before going home. Destination? Goa Gajah.

Our guide book says this is a long 10km circuit. But, after our ‘extended’ Campuan Ridge walk, we feel we ought to give this a try, at least.

On the way, we met a very nice American who seemed very concerned that we were walking to Goa Gajah.

“You’re Singaporeans, right? It’s your accent! I can tell because my wife is Singaporean.”



The tall, gangly man said the walk was not very pleasant and was dangerous. Unpleasant we could understand, as it was rather dusty walking by the road, but how could it be dangerous (unless the locals know something we don’t)? Anyway, he pointed us in the right direction and promised to pick us up if he saw us again later (he was waiting for his staff to pick him up after getting supplies).

True to his word, he appeared about fifteen minutes later and offered us a ride to Goa Gajah in his pickup. He even gave up his seat next to his driver to us so that we did not bake in the sun at the back (where he sat)! We chatted with the driver (his employee) and learned that the American had settled in Bali 8-9 years ago, was in the construction business and was a good boss.



When we alighted at Goa Gajah, the American was still vaguely worried (don’t know why) and we assured him repeatedly that we would be fine. Our compatriot is so lucky to marry such a nice man! Too bad we didn’t get to meet her.

There wasn’t much to see at Goa Gajah although the surroundings was quite pleasant.

Met a Malaysian couple with two daughters whom we’d seen at the next table in Café Lotus yesterday. The father said he brought his family here so that he could expose his kids to Asian values and let them learn about their roots as they’d been staying in America all these years.

We took a bemo back to Ubud and observed that both the locals and tourists (us) paid the same price. A poor, old woman boarded midway and when we reached Ubud, the driver actually gave her half the fare back. What a heartwarming gesture! ^_^



We lunched early at Gayatri Café, a popular and cheap restaurant with a varied menu. Since lunch wasn’t very substantial, we decided to have tea at Café Wayan, supposedly famous for scrumptious, fairly-priced Western breads and cakes. Was quite disappointed as we found it way too expensive for mediocre cakes and lousy service.

Debated whether we should have dinner at GreenHouse in Pertiwi Hotel or Lamak and finally settled on GreenHouse as it was just across the street from where we stayed. I had the highly recommended five-spiced duck breast while J ordered the squid-ink pasta. The pasta was a bit too hard (al dente it was not) and the squid slices were not too fresh. My duck dish was quite good though and J also enjoyed the tasting portion I slided on to her plate. Nonetheless, we enjoyed our leisurely dinner until it was time to settle the bill.



When the bill came, we were charged for items we did not order although the restaurant was quite empty (only 2-3 tables were occupied throughout our dinner). After the mistake was corrected and payment made, the staff did not return our change although we sat at our table for quite a while. No doubt it was a small sum but they should still give it back to us since service charge was already included and they should not just pocket the change as extra tips without our consent!

We would go back to Tropical Bale (even though it’s more expensive than GreenHouse) anytime when we compared the attitude of the staff at both restaurants. Maybe we should have gone to Lamak instead, which several guide books have recommended for outstanding, creative food.

Next: One more makan session

Bipedal pests >> Bali 06

Moved to Sri Bungalows today. Our room was very clean and comfy and the staff helpful. The wooden doors were very ornate but they creaked very loudly every time someone opened or closed them – a very good security measure! ;p

We decide to take another walk, this time around Penestanan and Sayan. According to our guide book, we should be able to cover the 6.5km route in about three hours. After walking for a while, we stopped at a provision stall to ask for direction, as we did not want to repeat yesterday’s mistake.

A local on motorbike told us to keep to the road we were on, though we saw fellow walkers in front of us turning into a side street. Assuming that he would know the area better, we continued down the road.

Soon, we came to a fork and were wondering where to go when we saw the same local ahead of us. He told us to cross a short rickety bridge built over a small stream before climbing a short flight of slippery, muddy steps. By now, we should have realized that something was wrong as there was no mention of such a bridge or steps in our guide book, but us gullible types still believed that the ‘kind’ man was trying to help.

After struggling up the wet, slippery stairs, we landed right smack in somebody’s rice fields. The man offered to show us around, but we refused any further ‘help’. Then, he actually had the cheek to ask for money for showing us this view! We were fuming by now as this was a very dishonest and sneaky way to earn extra money. If he had offered to be our guide at the provision shop, we would have turned him down and be on our way instead of being led astray. 8(

Thankfully, we managed to find our way back to the main road after wasting much time and effort. When we finally reached Sayan Terrace Hotel (superb view overlooking distant rice terraces and the deep valley of the roaring Sungai Ayung below), two locals materialised out of nowhere and very ‘helpfully’ pointed to a path (already clearly signposted) next to the hotel, which would eventually lead to the riverside.

By now, we were wise to their tricks and decided to have a drink in the hotel instead. We decided to turn back after our break and - surprise, no surprise really - those two guys were still waiting next to the path! Their expressions were really comical when they realised that we were not taking the path. :p

This is really ridiculous! These guys are not providing any service at all as we can find our way easily. Besides, they could hardly speak English, so getting any commentary on the way was out, and yet they would still expect to be paid. Anyway, it’s dangerous for two women to follow two men to who knows where!

So today’s walk has been a disappointment, but at least we manage to get some exercise. ^_^ Am really glad we were not pestered at all yesterday, although we stopped to talk with local artisans, vendors and villagers.

Had our lunch at Café Lotus overlooking the lotus pond. It was packed, but compared to the good food we’ve had so far, the Western and Indonesian fare served here was nothing special and the service left a lot to be desired.

Had noodles at Waroeng Noodle Bar, a few doors down from Sri Bungalows, for dinner. We opted for a lighter dinner to save room for dessert (J: yah, we missed dessert last night). The noodle bar was bright and cheery though the noodles were nothing great.

Then we visited Kafe Batan Waru again to sample their fantastic bubuh injin, a warm pudding made from black rice. The version served here has vanilla ice-cream as well and the hot-cold combination is simply sublime! J’s brownie was not bad, but could not hold a candle to the black rice pudding. It’s obvious, from the way she was poaching spoonfuls of my rich dessert!

Next >> That Singaporean accent

Campuan caper >> Bali 05

We were up bright and early today, as we’d decided to attempt one of the walks suggested by Lonely Planet. It’s a 7km-walk to Campuan Ridge and back, which should take about two hours. Thought a bit of exercise would be good for us sedentary city dwellers…

As we climbed up (J: okay, it was a gentle walk up to the ridge, although I agree with Annie that it felt like a climb to two rather out-of-shape women), fields of elephant grass, traditionally used for thatched roofs, sloped away on either side. Rice terraces could also be seen from far.

We heard dogs barking ferociously as we approached the small village of Bangkiang Sidem and were worried that they might attack strangers. However, villagers whom we approached for directions assured us that it was ok to walk.

When we reached a junction, a sign pointed towards Ubud while another said that there were more paddy fields ahead. Unsure which way to go, a European couple walked by us towards the paddy fields. Thinking that the walk was way too short to end, we followed them - to our eternal regret! 8(

An hour or more later, we must have walked past another one or two villages and more barking dogs. The view was still pleasant, but we were beginning to feel the heat.

An Australian couple caught up with us (Hmm… we must really be crawling for so many people to pass us by. :p ) and we had a nice chat. They’d done this walk some years ago and the roads were unpaved then. Since they seemed to know the way, we walked on merrily.

Then we saw the European couple we met earlier turning back. They wondered whether they were on the right track and we told them that the Aussie couple had done this before so they turned around and continued walking. However, J and I began to feel that we’d missed the turning to Ubud as the walk was taking way too long – even for slow pokes like us! Finally, we checked with the locals and they confirmed that Ubud was back the direction we came – a couple of kilometers back!

Oh no! I didn’t want to walk back the same way again! Someone carry me please! Alas! Despite all my protests, back we went again!

If I’m feeling bad, I wonder how the Europeans feel, having walked to and fro so many times (to ‘check’ with us and the Aussie couple)?

We noticed that the easy-going chitchat and smiles had evaporated as the Westerners hurried back. We continued to stroll along since it was getting really hot and we were too ‘old’ to walk that fast. :p

By the time we hit the main road to Ubud, our two-hour walk had taken about four hours and 7km had stretched to 10km at least! Good thing our body’s not as weak as we thought since we obviously survived the walk.

As we walked wearily along Jalan Raya Sanggingan towards Ubud, I suddenly noticed movement on the road in front. Closer inspection revealed a snake, which had been run over by a vehicle (tyre marks). Ants were crawling all over it and carrying its insides away while it was still twitching! Urgh!

Wonder whether it’s dead and the twitching’s involuntary (muscular spasms?) or if the poor creature’s still alive and in pain…

Further down the road and we stumbled upon Tropical Bale, a blissful oasis from the noon sun. We had a table overlooking some rice fields. The staff was charming and the food, most beautifully presented.

It was so relaxing that we had to drag ourselves out into the hot afternoon. While we were walking out, one of the staff hurried after us to remind us that they still hadn’t given us our change.

You should have seen her smile when we told her to keep the change although it was just a small amount. Tropical Bale was the most expensive place we’ve eaten so far, so we’re really impressed by the staff’s attitude. ^_^

We had dinner at Kafe Batan Waru, reportedly one of Bali’s best restaurants serving Indonesian food. The spring rolls, mee goreng and ayam rica-rica were very tasty and the dessert menu was very tempting, but we simply could not find any more room in our tummies for sweets that night. 8)

Next >> Just desserts

Ubud - food haven >> Bali 04

Had a very horrible night. 8(

Between the dogs’ demonic barking and howling and the noise from the non-stop traffic, we hardly slept at all! So we had no choice but to move out of Candra Asri Bungalows.

Nick’s Pension, in contrast, was very tranquil and comfy.

After checking in, we took off again - in search of food, what else? :p

We had brunch at Casa Luna, listed in some guide books as one of Ubud’s top choices. I guess one of the draws is its creative international menu.

J had a potato dish while I ordered tofu, done Mediterranean style. The potato came in crispy strips woven into a basket to hold a very yummy mountain of veg doused with a zesty vinaigrette, which tasted of balsamic vinegar. My tofu dish was, likewise, intriguing. I popped a square of the baked concoction into my mouth and my eyes widened. Hmm… it was unexpectedly rich as the tofu had been mashed and mixed with a heady blend of rich, melty, cheese and creamy spinach.

Oh, we also tried tumeric juice, which is supposed to cleanse our internal plumbing, but the taste sure takes some getting use to! ^_^

Dinner was at Bumbu Bali 2, which served delicious Balinese fare. We both ordered rijsttafel, a Dutch adaptation of an Indonesian banquet comprising a wide variety of dishes. After a most satisfying dinner, we strolled around town before heading back to catch up on our beauty sleep…


Next >> A long short walk

Dirty Duck & others >> Bali 03

Before leaving for Ubud in the afternoon, we decided to head for the beach. Gone were the days when the beach was lined with sun worshippers. Now, you see more taxi drivers and hawkers than tourists…

The bus ride to Ubud was really uncomfortable. 8(

Perama crammed us all into this hot and stuffy minibus with no air-con or curtain to shade us from the noon sun. To make matters worse, J and I had to put our luggage on our laps as the bus did not even have space for smaller bags like ours, after all the available space was taken up by huge backpacks!

We noticed that most of the well-built Caucasians were spilling into the aisle! If even J and I (two relatively small-sized Asians) found the seats too small, I can’t imagine how awful these Westerners must have felt…

A family of three (parents and a little girl) took up a two-seater and a single seat in front and some of the Perama staff tried to move them to the last row of seats at the back. They refused to move, but the three of them had to squeeze onto a two-seater with the little girl sitting on her father’s lap. We didn’t know how many tickets they bought but if they had three tickets, Perama was actually cheating them of one seat!

Along the way, to our amazement, the bus actually stopped to pick up two more passengers - a lady and a kid! And expected everybody to squeeze onto the last row of seats, which was already full of big, hulking men! In the end, one of the local guys (he was carrying several paintings and might be an artist) gave up his seat and stood on the stairs at the exit.

This bus trip reminds me of the boat trip we took in Laos a few years ago. Both try to cram as many passengers as they can without any regard for the passengers’ comfort and safety. 8(

After settling in at Candra Asri Bungalows, we had a very enjoyable coffee break at Tutmak, next to the football field. With friendly staff and good coffee, Tutmak is a great café to while away the afternoon.

We had dinner at Bebek Bengil 1 (Dirty Duck Diner), another recommended restaurant well known for its crispy duck. When the duck arrived at our table, we were quite surprised by its size - it was much, much smaller than what we have back home. No wonder the waitress told us it was only enough for one person when we thought of sharing it. Despite its size, it was delicious! The pasta J ordered wasn’t so good though.

The restaurant has a delightful dining area and the ground is sprawling, but it was too dark for us to appreciate the view. 8(

Next >> Tofu & tumeric juice in Ubud

In Kuta >> Bali 02

We woke up bright and early today.

Sri Ratu has a lovely, small garden and a charming breakfast nook on the second floor. Our simple, clean and quiet room is directly above the cute swimming pool, which reminds me of a gigantic bathtub! ^_^



During breakfast, we met a nice, elderly couple from New Zealand. They told us they always stayed at Sri Ratu whenever they visited Bali. This time round, Bali was chosen as the destination for a family reunion with their son and his family from England!

After breakfast, we were off to indulge in a Singaporean's favourite activity - shopping! I remembered our bulging bags from our previous trip and looked forward to buying more goodies, but was sadly disappointed. :-(

One of the main deterrent was bargaining.

I'm so used to fixed prices that the thought of having to bargain for every item, big or small, just puts me off. Thank goodness we do not need to bargain for our food!

We had lunch at Made’s Warung, a local favourite in Kuta. J ordered the nasi campur (a specialty of the house) while I had otak (steamed minced fish mixed with spices) and veg with rice. Both were delicious!

Had dinner at Indo-National, a restaurant serving Western food and recommended in the guidebooks. Service was good, portion quite generous though I had expected the seafood to be fresher. Still, it was an entertaining and enjoyable evening…

Next >> beach to bus to Bebek Bengil

An evening in Bali >> Bali 01

Was quite excited about this trip as J and I last visited Bali more than 10 years ago! We arrived in the early evening.

The airport was quite spacious but not too crowded - which is surprising as this is supposed to be high season. We didn't see many tourists on the way to our hotel either and thought we would see more in town.


After checking in at Sri Ratu in Legian, we went out for dinner and noticed that most of the restaurants along Jalan Padma were quite empty. Maybe there were more tourists in Kuta, but it sure felt way too quiet for high season.

So, despite rosy reports, Bali might not be recovering too well...

J: Ditto A's thoughts about the sights and sounds on arrival. An unexpected break means a visit to this island after such a long time. I can't wait for sunshine tomorrow!

This trip happened in August 2006.

Next >> Will Miz Shoppalotta strike again?