August 26, 2006

Hunting for oranges >> Sarawak snapshots 04


After our drive and seafood lunch in Qing Shan, one of our friends, a Kuching native, had a craving for fresh fruits, in particular, sweet oranges.

So, we dropped by the market.

Click on thumbnails for a bigger look!
At a fruit and vegetable market by the waterfront, Kuching At a fruit and vegetable market by the waterfront, Kuching At a fruit and vegetable market by the waterfront, Kuching At a fruit and vegetable market by the waterfront, Kuching Cat statues are a common sight at traffic circles and junctions in Kuching River 'cab' ferrying passengers across the Sarawak River, Kuching waterfront

Next >> Orang Utans

August 19, 2006

Temple on a hill >> Sarawak snapshots 03


Today, we went to Qing Shan, to visit the Chinese temple there. That, ostensibly, is the reason for driving an hour out of Kuching for a half-day excursion.

Pleasant drive, gentle scenery, smooth roads; panoramic vistas from the temple atop a small hill, with a Malay village below.

And then, jetty with seafood restaurants displaying their catch of the day. Now, that sounds like the real reason for this junket, if you ask me...

Click on thumbnails for a bigger look.
Ferocious door guardians at Qing Shan Shi Ferocious door guardians at Qing Shan Shi Golden Buddha's footprint at Qing Shan Shi Jetty in Qing Shan area, at foot of Chinese temple Jetty in Qing Shan area, at foot of Chinese temple Jetty in Qing Shan area, at foot of Chinese temple

Next >> Hunting for oranges

August 12, 2006

Cat city? >> Sarawak snapshots 02


I was too busy eating, chatting and snapping pics to write.

So just pics, and more pics from our June Sarawak trip.

If you're visiting, have a great trip, like we did!

So, let's start at the beginning... in Kuching*.

Click on thumbnails for a bigger look!
View of downtown Kuching from our room in Hotel Grand Continental Kuching View of downtown Kuching from our room in Hotel Grand Continental Kuching One of many homey coffeeshops in Kuching; this one sells very good laksa. One of many homey coffeeshops in Kuching; this one sells very good laksa. Sarawak Aquarium, next to the museum, Kuching. Sarawak Aquarium, next to the museum, Kuching.
* Kuching in Malay = cat

This trip was made in June 2006.

Next >> Temple on a hill

July 09, 2006

False start! >> Sarawak snapshots 01


Hi all,

It's been a while.

A stroll in the woods, Semengoh Nature Reserve, SarawakI will put up some pics of a short trip I made with a group of friends to Kuching and a few other parts of Sarawak a few weeks ago.

Do come back for a visit!

I expect the pics will be ready in 2-3 weeks' time. After Sarawak, I'll stick to my original plan, which is a blog about the Mae Hong Son loop.

In the meantime, stay healthy & travel happy!

Cheers,
Annie


PS: For a start, you might want to visit these websites to find out more about the flora & fauna of East Malaysia's Sarawak, on the island of Borneo.

www.sarawaktourism.com
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarawak
www.sarawak.com.my
forum.isarawak.com.my/
www.flickr.com/photos/tags/sarawak/
www.borneo-online.com.my/

June 04, 2006

Tales of a city II >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 50


Dec 3: Night, Bangkok

Christmas is round the corner.

The shopping areas have been decorated to welcome the holiday season.

Wat Arun, Bangkok, ThailandSo, after dinner, we took a break from shopping to admire the lights twinkling so gayly in the night. Street lamps, overhead bridges, shopping complexes and hotels sparkled with multi-coloured lights, adding cheer to the throng of shoppers seeking bargains and finding gifts for friends and family.

We were feeling a little down as we would end our trip tomorrow when we leave Bangkok to fly home to Singapore. Being bathed in warm lights and happy crowds lifted our mood somewhat and, after strolling for a while, we were able to appreciate the gaiety and vibrant atmosphere surrounding us.

Actually, our attempt to cheer ourselves up at this last stage of our trip started the first day we reached Bangkok. After spending a lot of the last two months out of the city, the constant grind of urban life was rather trying at first.

There was, suddenly, so very many more of everything - people, cars and buildings (really tall buildings) - all augmented by a relentless cacophony of noise and dust. And the aircon in some of the buildings was absolutely frigid, especially after the humid heat outside.

To get away for a while, we ducked into the cinema to watch a Harry Potter movie. The cineplex had many counters for buying tickets using a computerised system. We chose a time slot we liked and made sure we were watching the English version, not the one dubbed in Thai! The sellers were young and chirpy. We got two tics and found our theatre without any problem. It was at least a couple of dollars cheaper than watching the same movie back in Singapore.

Ayuthaya, ThailandWhen the lights dimmed, everyone stood up. Puzzled, we followed suit. When some foreign teenagers several rows in front of us remained seated, the locals around them quietly indicated they should also stand up.

Then, an image of the King lighted up the screen and the national anthem started. It was a solemn occasion, not an unwanted sound from the audience - no sigh, no cough, no shuffling of feet.

But, once the anthem was played and everyone settled into their seats, we felt the change in the air. Everyone knew they were in for a rollicking time of Quidditch, good-versus-wicked-wizard action and dazzling special effects.

Budget (for two in baht)

Dec 2
Room >> B500 + Breakfast >> B70 + Shoes >> B872 + Groceries >> B133 + Underwear >> B99 + Sundries >> B343 + Hairdye >> B255 + Lunch >> B70 + Drinks >> B98 + Puffs >> B20 + Shoes >> B325 + Supper & breakfast (next day's) >> B103 + Dinner >> B285 + Groceries >> B35.5

Dec 3
Room >> B500 + Shoes >> B199 + Boots >> B711 + Strepsils >> B54 + T-shirts (8x) >> B792 + Clothes >> B1040 + Lunch >> B90 + Snacks >> B36 + Dinner >> B89 + Breakfast (next day's) >> B43 + Newspapers >> B20 + Food stuff >> B520

Dec 4
Taxi to airport >> B189 (incl B30 expressway toll) + Lunch >> B164 + Ice-cream >> B30


Next: This trip ends here. Thank you for dropping by. I'll be back in 2-3 weeks. Oops! Make that a month. But, do come back if you're keen to find out what it's like to swing round the Mae Hong Son loop. In the meantime, stay healthy and travel well! Annie (Jun 4, 2006)

May 12, 2006

Tales of a city I >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 49


Dec 1: Night, Bangkok

We are getting used to city life again. That means, for us anyway, loads of shopping and eating, with no pretense to sightseeing. I would have also dosed up on the offerings from the goggle box, except that the small TV secured high up in one corner of our room in Wendy House was not very conducive to comfortable lounging when watching TV. So I gave up on the TV and went shopping with Annie instead.

Wendy House is a no frills but clean guesthose, tucked near the end of a narrow street, behind Siam Square. When we arrived a couple of days ago, we checked out A-One first, but was told they were full for the night. Then, we decided on the dazzlingly white Bed & Breakfast. Our reception was less than dazzling, however.

The woman manning the reception was very unfriendly and only grudgingly agreed to show us a room. She threw the keys to her staff and indicated us. As we moved to follow the staff, one of the guests from the breakfast nook asked her something. Immediately, she was all smiles, her tone oozing honey in reply. Coincidentally (or not), we noted that the few people having breakfast or a drink were all Caucasians.

Passenger ferry on the Chao Praya, Bangkok, ThailandThoroughly disgusted, we gave the room a cursory glance and went back to the lobby to let the woman know we were leaving. She took the keys back from her staff and ignored us, turning to banter with another guest. I could feel a few eyes from the cafe corner trailing us out.

After this rather inhospitable experience, we tried our luck next door, at Wendy House. There were two women manning the counter. They eyed us stonily when we asked them if they had a room.

What is worse? To be treated with outright unfriendliness and dismissed like trash, or to be regarded with suspicion and examined like a bug under a microscope?

Just as I was about to give up and suggest to Annie we go somewhere less trying, one of the ladies asked to see our passports. When they saw our passports, their demeanour changed.

Suddenly, the twin arctic blasts thawed and the ladies even managed a smile or two. One of them showed us a few rooms. The stairs were taxing. But, eventually, we chose a corner one, with wide windows overlooking the street.

As the days went by and we got used to each other, Annie and I came to appreciate the no-nonsense and brisk service provided by Wendy House. The counter staff were very watchful about who entered and exited the guesthouse.

All in all, this looks like one of the sturdier options along the street for women travellers, especially those on their own.

Traffic woes

Yesterday, we were stuck in a traffic jam while getting back from Central Ladprao to Mo Chit BTS station. Earlier, we alighted at Mo Chit, intending to visit Chatuchak Market, but took a detour to Central Ladprao for some aircon shopping after we stumbled upon a notice announcing a free shuttle service to the shopping complex.

By the time our BTS shuttle bus got out of the traffic snarl and dropped us at Mo Chit station, it was rather late. So we headed back to Siam Square and visited Chatuchak today.

Ayuthaya, ThailandChildren of lesser gods

Having visited Chatuchak on a previous trip, we were there again on nostalgia. Besides, in this monster of a market, we were sure to 'discover' new areas we missed out the last time.

This time, however, the prevailing impression for me was the presence of beggars, prostrate on the paths leading in and out of the market. Some of the men had only one leg and were lying on the road. One seemed to have a wound (bandaged) on his chest.

We also saw beggars in the shopping areas. Yesterday, we walked past many beggars lining the bridge between World Trade Centre and Gaysorn. These were mainly children and women carrying babies.

Budget (for two in baht)

Nov 29
Breakfast >> B20 + Train (Bangkok Noi) >> B50 + Taxi to guesthouse >> B80 + Room >> B500 + Lunch >> B120 + BTS 3-day pass >> B560 + Cinema >> B200 + Postcard >> B7 + Dinner >> B90 + Supper >> B55 + Groceries >> B29 + Breakfast (next day's) >> B32

Nov 30
Room >> B500 + Coffee >> B70 + Bread >> B16 + Lunch >> B60 + Titbits >> B67 + Dinner >> B341 + Groceries >> B109.75

Dec 1
Room >> B500 + Lunch >> B64 + Drinks >> B30 + Tea >> B78 + Newspapers >> B20 + Shopping >> B2228 + Dinner >> B234 + Groceries >> B19 (minus B50 gift voucher) + Cake >> B23

Next... Tropical Christmas

May 07, 2006

Ugliness on the Death Railway >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 48


Nov 27: Night, Kanchanaburi

This morning, we took the train to Nam Tok. The train was crowded with packaged tourists.

In one instance, a woman guide told a Caucasian man (not with her tour group) to ask his Thai companion when he asked her if she knew where they were. She said loudly, "Ask her. She's Thai. She should know."

On the Death Railway, Kanchanaburi, ThailandIn another display of uncouth behaviour, a male guide plonked down next to Annie. There were other empty seats he could have chosen. Then, a big Caucasian sat down, next to me. He started to crowd me.

When I asked him not to sit so close to me, he said, "It's okay."

I told him it might be okay for him, it was not okay for me. The guide was so surprised that we spoke English. Soon, both men moved off, the Cacausian to a seat in front. No one had been sitting there, so there was no need for him to seat with us at all.

He left at 17

Back in Kanchanaburi, we visited the Allied War Cemetery, across the road from the train station.

All these lives, ended prematurely by violence. Some grave stones marked the resting place of teenagers as young as 17 years old. Others indicated that the dead had left behind children and spouses.

These are the spoils of war...

Our guesthouse, Apple Guesthouse, is within walking distance of the cemetery. We have spent two very restful days there.

The guesthouse's accommodation compromises a series of hut-like units, set in a pleasant garden. Our room is simple, but so spotless that we do not see a single ant anywhere, not even in the bathroom. There is also a rustic restuarant serving very good Thai food, with some northeastern specialties, such as laap (spicy salad for the carnivorous) and sticky rice. Needless to say, we dine there every evening.

Sometimes, Noi, one of the very active owners, would stroll around during dinner, making sure the guests ordered dishes which complemented each other. On our first evening, she took our order and nodded in agreement with our selection.

Buyer, beware

Speaking of guesthouses, the place we stayed in while in Bangkok for an overnight pit stop between Ayuthaya and Kanchanaburi was terrible.

Houses on River Kwai, Kanchanaburi, ThailandWe saw Charlie House advertised in one of those free traveller's magazines. It looked attractive and was in an area we had not stayed before. Telling ourselves we should be more adventurous and sniff out new haunts, we decided to give Charlie House a try since this small hotel had been written as a solid budget choice by more than one guide books.

Bad, bad choice. Our room was nothing like the photos. It was cramped with two sagging beds and peeling paint. It was not very clean either. We spotted ants in the bathroom and the walls of our room as well. Some of these ants were large enough to give us a nasty bite. On the plus side, the lady manager was a very pleasant woman, who made us feel very welcome.

Budget (for two in baht)

Nov 27
Room >> B250

Breakfast >> B145
Laundry >> B15
Train (Nam Tok return) >> B68
H20 & kueh (pastries) >> B20
H20 (3x) >> B15
Lunch >> B30
Bananas >> B10
Dinner >> B264

Nov 28
Room >> B250

Brunch >> B95
Songthaew to Bridge >> B12
Snacks >> B40
Postcards >> B10
Drinks >> B40
Dinner >> B204

Next... Back to city life

May 06, 2006

War and peace >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 47


Nov 26: Morning, Kanchanaburi

Kanchanaburi is a surprise, a very pleasant surprise. It is not as choked with backpackers (disco nights at guesthouses and watering holes down river) or as kitschy (tacky Bridge Over River Kwai souvenirs) as the impression we get from guide books and fellow travellers.

Accommodation on the River Kwai, Kanchanaburi, ThailandWe arrive just in time for the week-long annual festival to commemorate the sacrifices of World War Two. Banners annoucing the festival adorn the roads in town. But the heart of festivities centres on the grounds next to the River Kwai Bridge. This is a half-an-hour walk from leafy Apple Guesthouse, where we plan to stay for the next two or three days.

After settling in, we decided to check out the surroundings. It was very hot when we started walking and there was little shade along the road. Luckily, there were enough distractions along the way, one of them being lunch in a shop by the road, next to a patch of parched land.

In this heat, it was difficult to work up an enthusiasm for food, especially of the hot, soupy (or porridgy) variety. But, the noodles were so tasty! We realised we were quite hungry after all and ended up sharing three bowls of noodles and a bottle of ice-cold Pepsi.

Apple Guesthouse, Kanchanaburi, ThailandReplete and rejuvenated, we tackled the rest of the walk to the Bridge. There, a very different sight awaited us. Gone was the somnolent and almost isolated air during our walk. It was somewhat of a shock to see so many people milling about.

The carnival was already in full swing, spread across the ground on both sides of the small train station (more a stop really). The stalls were packed with all sorts of goodies for sale, from the edible to the usable. The sights, sounds and smells were incredible.

A few of the food stalls selling doughtnuts, cakes and pastries were making them on the spot! Meanwhile, other stalls peddling deep-fried snacks, bubble tea and crispy insects competed by offering as bewildering and colourful a spread as they could display at their compact stalls. There were mountains of food.

As if not to be outdone, the non-edible sections brought out a vast selection of casual and more formal clothing, from rugged jeans and funky (or rude, depending on your sense of humour) t-shirts to smart pant suits and slinky dresses. Looking around, we also saw loads of household items on sale. If we wanted to, we could even order custom-made curtains!

Meanwhile, entertainment (besides people-watching and snacking) came in the form of performances on the open-air stage. There was some kind of schedule posted, but we could not read Thai. It was all so fun-filled and lighthearted that we found it difficult to remember that countless prisoners of war toiled and died constructing the Death Railway during the Second World War.

However, once we walked away from the carnival and towards the JEATH museum and war shrine, a much more sombre air permeated. It was moving to see small groups and couples entering the shrine to lay a wreath or burn some incense. In space and time, how far removed this tranquil and leafy nook must be from the rousing festivities a short distance away, and from the human suffering in the not-too-distant past.

In the evening, we headed back to the Bridge for the Light and Sound show. It was drizzling, but that did not deter the audience, who packed the muli-tiered stands, wearing rain coats or carrying umbrellas. Some did not even bother, seating bareheaded in the rain.

The Light and Sound show was an impressive display. Action flowed seamlessly between the river, the Bridge and the two floating stages by the river bank below the spectator stands. One of the highlights included the dramatic entry of the gleaming locomotive, steaming regally out of the woods from the other side of the river and pausing just after crossing the Bridge for spectators to admire.

Midway through the show, Annie whispered to me, "I wonder what the Japanese are thinking about when watching this display?"

It must not be easy watching the segment depicting Japanese aggression in Southeast Asia, even in this watered down version.

Ayuthaya, ThailandPillage and plunder, terror and torment. That is the dominant nightmare for many Asians, especially the older generations, who have lived and suffered through the Japanese Occupation. Although there now seems to be little outward anger towards the Japanese in Southeast Asia, it is obvious that many Asians still remember their tragedy, as is evident from the outpouring of anger every time a Japanese leader visit a war shrine where major military figures of the period were interred.

So no, not water under the bridge at all in this part of the world, and not for a long time, I suspect.

Especially as some seem intent on fanning the flames of hatred to fuel their own ambitions. With Japan seemingly on the road to sheding the 'shy' military mein it has cultivated so scrupulously after its defeat by the Allied powers in 1945, such anti-Japanese sentiments can very easily warp into darker impulses. All in all, a potential minefield that, if detonated, may destablise and destroy everything this region has achieved since the end of the Second World War.

I should stop. Enough speculation. However, I am now reminded of a danger, more immediate and definitely closer to home, to travellers visiting Kanchanaburi. Dogs have dogged us since Ayuthaya. Having said that, the dogs here are less of a problem, but we have still been stalked by the occasional over-zealous one.

Budget (for two in baht)

Nov 24
Room >> B500 + Breakfast >> B115 + Entry (Wat Mahathat) >> B60 + Entry (Ratchaburana) >> B60 + Drinks >> B35 + Lunch >> B160 + Dinner >> B40 + Supper >> B65.25

Nov 25
Room >> B540 + Breakfast >> B115 + Minibus to Bangkok >> B90 + Taxi to hotel >> B71 + Lunch >> B199 + BTS (Sala Daeng to Nana) >> B50 + Drinks >> B120 + Dinner >> B105 + H20 >> B10

Nov 26
Room >> B250 + Breakfast >> B105 + Taxi to Southern Bus Station >> B110 + AC bus to Kanchanaburi >> B158 + Songthaew to War Cemetery (for guesthouse) >> B12 + Lunch >> B55 + Internet (2 hours) & Pepsi >> B90 + Dinner >> B200 + Tuk-tuk (Guesthouse to River Kwai Bridge) >> B30 + Light & Sound show >> B200

Next... Iron Rooster on the Death Railway

April 30, 2006

Dogged >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 46


Nov 23: Night, Ayuthaya

From Udon Thani, we took the overnight train to Ayathaya, the capital of Siam in the 13th-14th centuries. With the fall of the Khmer-influenced Sukhotai empire, the Siamese gained dominance over the land.

Ayuthaya, ThailandTrying to recall textbook history from school did not help me to sleep. And the conditions in fan class were no help either. This was the first time we booked seats in fan class. It was comfortably cool at night, but the lights remained on. Way too bright to snooze. Then, we were periodically distracted by the patrol, a man carrying a torch and handgun walking up and down the carriages.

Despite staying awake, we still managed to almost miss our stop. We were at the second last carriage and when our train pulled into the station in Ayuthaya at 5.20am, we could not see the sign with the station's name. Actually, the Ayuthaya station was so small that we did not see the station from our carriage!

Luckily, we proved to be fleetfooted when sufficiently motivated. And not a moment too soon, as the train started to pull out again. A station officer on the ground saw us and yelled for the train to stop. We were grateful and leapt out quickly before we became entertainment for bored insomniacs on board.

Ayuthaya is sprawling. The tuk-tuk drivers, unsurprisingly, overcharge as and when they can.

Drained after a couple bouts of futile haggling, we took to self-powered transport. Better to rely on our own feet than to be held ransom by voracious tuk-tuk drivers. Walking at our own pace, we were fortunate to see some interesting ruins.

The day would have been a great one if not for the dogs.

Ayuthaya, ThailandThe canine menace was not confined to strays. In fact, our worst scare was from three dogs charging out of a house as we walked by. They rounded on us, barking and baring their teeth. And we were just passing by, walking on the edge of the road, more than a metre from the open gate.

The bo-chap (Singaporean colloquial expression meaning indifferent, cannot be bothered) owner, relaxing in her seat on the porch, just yelled at her dogs, but did not do anything else to restrain them. These dogs snapped at our heels for a few more metres before giving up the chase. Not fun at all.

Home for the next two days

Ayuthaya, ThailandPU Guesthouse, where we decided to hole up for the next couple of days, was interesting. It was like an extended terrace house, located on a fairly quiet lane lined with houses and small shops. It also operated on a bring-your-own-soap-and-toilet-paper basis. Occupancy was good and we could only get a warm box-like room downstairs, where we could hear the constant coming and going outside our door.

Then, the owner told us that someone was moving out of one of the more spacious rooms upstairs and offered us that room, which came with aircon, balcony and the princely sum of 500 baht.

We had not slept since yesterday. We were grimy from our all-night train ride. We had wasted one tuk-tuk ride and precious leg-power looking for accommodation in another part of town. Time for a little pampering. We quickly accepted the owner's offer.

Deal concluded, the nice owner told us we could bathe in the downstairs room while waiting for her staff to clean up the other room. Of course, we had to promise not to mess up the beds in this room!

Budget (for two in baht)

Nov 22
Lunch >> B60

Bread >> B27
Coffee >> B50
Shopping >> B399
Dinner >> B90
Tuk-tuk to train station >> B20

Nov 23
Breakfast >> B80

Tuk-tuk (two trips) >> B50
Room >> B500
H20 >> B10
Drinks >> B20
Lunch >> B40
Dinner >> B90
Ice-cream & doughnuts >> B47
Groceries >> B105.5

Next... A new destination

April 15, 2006

Much ado about... >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 45a


Addendum: Charoen Hotel to train station

Nov 21: Night, Udon Thani

Checking out of the hotel was hassle-free; getting a tuk-tuk to the train station for our overnight journey to Ayuthaya was another experience.

Dusk was changing to night and it was difficult to get a tuk-tuk. After waiting for 20 minutes (ample time to walk to the station) on the main road, one tuk-tuk finally pulled over.

There were two young men in the vehicle. The guide books are always warning about getting into a vehicle with more than one man on board. So, we were reluctant to negotiate the fare with the grinning guys.

But, it was getting late and there was no other tuk-tuk available. So, when one of the young men left his tuk-tuk and approached us, we told him we were going to the train station.

Giant sculpture in the Buddha Park, Vientiane, LaosOh dear! He could not speak English. Neither could his always-grinning pal. After trying various permutations of the words "train" and "station", we resorted to sign language and amateur acting.

But, I guess we were terrible actors. They could not understand and kept saying "airport?", which seemed to be the only English word they understood.

A sudden inspiration, and I ran back to the hotel. The helpful staff immediately wrote the Thai words for "train station" on a piece of paper and even taught me how to pronounce the words correctly.

Back I went to the tuk-tuk. The guys took one look at the paper and got very excited. "Ah, Tha Rot Fai! Rot Fai! Rot Fai!" Ha! Ha! Ha!

At last, they knew where we wanted to go! We reached the station in less than 10 minutes.

Assumptions

The tuk-tuk guys were helpful and friendly. They gamely persisted in trying to understand us even when the situation appeared hopeless.

But, they saw us waiting with our bags in front of a business hotel. I think they simply assumed that we were going to the airport, which was probably the destination for most foreign visitors on business. So, even when we mimicked the sound of trains and pointed in the general direction of the station, they remained convinced that we were going to the airport.

On our part, we could simply have shown them our train tickets, but we grew more desperate as our departure time drew nearer and simply forgot that flashing our tics should do the trick.

Also, we assume that it is potentially dangerous to get into a vehicle with more than just a male driver. A wise precaution, no doubt, but I wonder if the reverse is also true. Might not a driver feel safer with a companion, especially if he has to drive two burly males with large bags in a town full of foreigners?

Besides, I think some of them are just around for a joyride or two and to accompany the driver. It must be fairly boring to drive the same routes everyday.

This is a matter of trust and experience. Unfortunately, some rotten apples have spoilt the fruit in the barrel for the rest of us, drivers, friends and passengers.

Back

April 14, 2006

Among giants >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 45


Nov 21: Afternoon, Udon Thani

Monks enjoying their excursion in the Buddha Park, Vientiane, LaosWe had breakfast in Nong Khai before setting out for Sala Kaew Ku, the Buddha park on the outskirts of town. The scrambled eggs with ham were very good, but our starch intake was sadly restricted to the dainty toasts that accompanied our protein dish.

As we planned to leave for Udon Thani later in the morning, we were off to Sala Kaew Ku by 8.30am.

This Buddha park was smaller than her sister in Laos and very quiet in contrast. Besides us, there were only one or two other visitors within the compound. The stone sculptures, however, were as impressive and as imaginatively rendered.

Not intending to take too many photos, we did not bring an extra row of film for this excursion. And so, just midway through our walk, we discovered we were low on film and had to husband our remaining resources for the rest of our visit.

After a fairly whirlwind (by our speed anyway) tour of Sala Kaew Ku, we hurried back to the hotel. Our bags were already packed and we settled our bill quickly. Then, it was off to the bus station.

Alighting from our tuk-tuk, we saw a bus getting ready to move out. It was the Udon Thani bus! Some wild gesturing from the bus boy induced us to scramble up the vehicle and, by 10.20am, we were on our way to Udon Thani.

Giant sculpture in Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai, ThailandAt Udon Thani, we walked from the chaotic bus station towards the eating and shopping places a stone's throw away. Unfortunately, we could not find a budget place we liked. We thought the accommodation choices looked rather crummy.

Eventualy, we 'upgraded' to the neat and trim Charoen Hotel, which seemed popular with businessmen and Thai families. Actually, we had walked into an even better-looking hotel, attracted by the lavish use of glass in its bright and airy atrium. The beautifully coiffured and attired staff were very polite and smiley, but regretably, they could not offer a room to Madam because the hotel was fully occupied for the night. Instead, they directed us to the Charoen Hotel.

At Charoen, we were shown a couple of rooms. We were indicated the one we liked, agreed on the price and discovered we got ourselves a deluxe room, which was three grades above the cheapest. Carpeted aircon room, ensuite bathroom with tub, cable TV, minibar and even an in-house swimming pool. Yup, we had moved up. Yes, indeed.

May as well enjoy the amenities while we are here.

Addendum: Annie's POV

Budget (for two baht)

Breakfast >> B130
Tuk-tuk to Sala KK >> B40
Entry >> B40
Tuk-tuk back to hotel >> B40
Tuk-tuk to bus station >> B30
Bus to Udon Thani >> B42
Tuk-tuk to hotel >> B40
Room >> B750
Tips >> B20
Lunch >> B65
Groceries >> B323.50
Train tics to Ayuthaya >> B512
Dinner >> B119
Breakfast (for next day) >> B57

Next... Overnight in fan class