Tales of a city II >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 50

Dec 3: Night, Bangkok

Christmas is round the corner.

The shopping areas have been decorated to welcome the holiday season.

So, after dinner, we took a break from shopping to admire the lights twinkling so gayly in the night. Street lamps, overhead bridges, shopping complexes and hotels sparkled with multi-coloured lights, adding cheer to the throng of shoppers seeking bargains and finding gifts for friends and family.

We were feeling a little down as we would end our trip tomorrow when we leave Bangkok to fly home to Singapore. Being bathed in warm lights and happy crowds lifted our mood somewhat and, after strolling for a while, we were able to appreciate the gaiety and vibrant atmosphere surrounding us.

Actually, our attempt to cheer ourselves up at this last stage of our trip started the first day we reached Bangkok. After spending a lot of the last two months out of the city, the constant grind of urban life was rather trying at first.

There was, suddenly, so very many more of everything - people, cars and buildings (really tall buildings) - all augmented by a relentless cacophony of noise and dust. And the aircon in some of the buildings was absolutely frigid, especially after the humid heat outside.

To get away for a while, we ducked into the cinema to watch a Harry Potter movie. The cineplex had many counters for buying tickets using a computerised system. We chose a time slot we liked and made sure we were watching the English version, not the one dubbed in Thai! The sellers were young and chirpy. We got two tics and found our theatre without any problem. It was at least a couple of dollars cheaper than watching the same movie back in Singapore.

When the lights dimmed, everyone stood up. Puzzled, we followed suit. When some foreign teenagers several rows in front of us remained seated, the locals around them quietly indicated they should also stand up.

Then, an image of the King lighted up the screen and the national anthem started. It was a solemn occasion, not an unwanted sound from the audience - no sigh, no cough, no shuffling of feet.

But, once the anthem was played and everyone settled into their seats, we felt the change in the air. Everyone knew they were in for a rollicking time of Quidditch, good-versus-wicked-wizard action and dazzling special effects.

Budget (for two in baht)

Dec 2
Room >> B500 + Breakfast >> B70 + Shoes >> B872 + Groceries >> B133 + Underwear >> B99 + Sundries >> B343 + Hairdye >> B255 + Lunch >> B70 + Drinks >> B98 + Puffs >> B20 + Shoes >> B325 + Supper & breakfast (next day's) >> B103 + Dinner >> B285 + Groceries >> B35.5

Dec 3
Room >> B500 + Shoes >> B199 + Boots >> B711 + Strepsils >> B54 + T-shirts (8x) >> B792 + Clothes >> B1040 + Lunch >> B90 + Snacks >> B36 + Dinner >> B89 + Breakfast (next day's) >> B43 + Newspapers >> B20 + Food stuff >> B520

Dec 4
Taxi to airport >> B189 (incl B30 expressway toll) + Lunch >> B164 + Ice-cream >> B30

Next: This trip ends here. Thank you for dropping by. I'll be back in 2-3 weeks. Oops! Make that a month. But, do come back if you're keen to find out what it's like to swing round the Mae Hong Son loop. In the meantime, stay healthy and travel well! Annie (Jun 4, 2006)

Tales of a city I >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 49

Dec 1: Night, Bangkok

We are getting used to city life again. That means, for us anyway, loads of shopping and eating, with no pretense to sightseeing. I would have also dosed up on the offerings from the goggle box, except that the small TV secured high up in one corner of our room in Wendy House was not very conducive to comfortable lounging when watching TV. So I gave up on the TV and went shopping with Annie instead.

Wendy House is a no frills but clean guesthose, tucked near the end of a narrow street, behind Siam Square. When we arrived a couple of days ago, we checked out A-One first, but was told they were full for the night. Then, we decided on the dazzlingly white Bed & Breakfast. Our reception was less than dazzling, however.

The woman manning the reception was very unfriendly and only grudgingly agreed to show us a room. She threw the keys to her staff and indicated us. As we moved to follow the staff, one of the guests from the breakfast nook asked her something. Immediately, she was all smiles, her tone oozing honey in reply. Coincidentally (or not), we noted that the few people having breakfast or a drink were all Caucasians.

Thoroughly disgusted, we gave the room a cursory glance and went back to the lobby to let the woman know we were leaving. She took the keys back from her staff and ignored us, turning to banter with another guest. I could feel a few eyes from the cafe corner trailing us out.

After this rather inhospitable experience, we tried our luck next door, at Wendy House. There were two women manning the counter. They eyed us stonily when we asked them if they had a room.

What is worse? To be treated with outright unfriendliness and dismissed like trash, or to be regarded with suspicion and examined like a bug under a microscope?

Just as I was about to give up and suggest to Annie we go somewhere less trying, one of the ladies asked to see our passports. When they saw our passports, their demeanour changed.

Suddenly, the twin arctic blasts thawed and the ladies even managed a smile or two. One of them showed us a few rooms. The stairs were taxing. But, eventually, we chose a corner one, with wide windows overlooking the street.

As the days went by and we got used to each other, Annie and I came to appreciate the no-nonsense and brisk service provided by Wendy House. The counter staff were very watchful about who entered and exited the guesthouse.

All in all, this looks like one of the sturdier options along the street for women travellers, especially those on their own.

Traffic woes

Yesterday, we were stuck in a traffic jam while getting back from Central Ladprao to Mo Chit BTS station. Earlier, we alighted at Mo Chit, intending to visit Chatuchak Market, but took a detour to Central Ladprao for some aircon shopping after we stumbled upon a notice announcing a free shuttle service to the shopping complex.

By the time our BTS shuttle bus got out of the traffic snarl and dropped us at Mo Chit station, it was rather late. So we headed back to Siam Square and visited Chatuchak today.

Children of lesser gods

Having visited Chatuchak on a previous trip, we were there again on nostalgia. Besides, in this monster of a market, we were sure to 'discover' new areas we missed out the last time.

This time, however, the prevailing impression for me was the presence of beggars, prostrate on the paths leading in and out of the market. Some of the men had only one leg and were lying on the road. One seemed to have a wound (bandaged) on his chest.

We also saw beggars in the shopping areas. Yesterday, we walked past many beggars lining the bridge between World Trade Centre and Gaysorn. These were mainly children and women carrying babies.

Budget (for two in baht)

Nov 29
Breakfast >> B20 + Train (Bangkok Noi) >> B50 + Taxi to guesthouse >> B80 + Room >> B500 + Lunch >> B120 + BTS 3-day pass >> B560 + Cinema >> B200 + Postcard >> B7 + Dinner >> B90 + Supper >> B55 + Groceries >> B29 + Breakfast (next day's) >> B32

Nov 30
Room >> B500 + Coffee >> B70 + Bread >> B16 + Lunch >> B60 + Titbits >> B67 + Dinner >> B341 + Groceries >> B109.75

Dec 1
Room >> B500 + Lunch >> B64 + Drinks >> B30 + Tea >> B78 + Newspapers >> B20 + Shopping >> B2228 + Dinner >> B234 + Groceries >> B19 (minus B50 gift voucher) + Cake >> B23

Next... Tropical Christmas

Ugliness on the Death Railway >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 48

Nov 27: Night, Kanchanaburi

This morning, we took the train to Nam Tok. The train was crowded with packaged tourists.

In one instance, a woman guide told a Caucasian man (not with her tour group) to ask his Thai companion when he asked her if she knew where they were. She said loudly, "Ask her. She's Thai. She should know."

In another display of uncouth behaviour, a male guide plonked down next to Annie. There were other empty seats he could have chosen. Then, a big Caucasian sat down, next to me. He started to crowd me.

When I asked him not to sit so close to me, he said, "It's okay."

I told him it might be okay for him, it was not okay for me. The guide was so surprised that we spoke English. Soon, both men moved off, the Cacausian to a seat in front. No one had been sitting there, so there was no need for him to seat with us at all.

He left at 17

Back in Kanchanaburi, we visited the Allied War Cemetery, across the road from the train station.

All these lives, ended prematurely by violence. Some grave stones marked the resting place of teenagers as young as 17 years old. Others indicated that the dead had left behind children and spouses.

These are the spoils of war...

Our guesthouse, Apple Guesthouse, is within walking distance of the cemetery. We have spent two very restful days there.

The guesthouse's accommodation compromises a series of hut-like units, set in a pleasant garden. Our room is simple, but so spotless that we do not see a single ant anywhere, not even in the bathroom. There is also a rustic restuarant serving very good Thai food, with some northeastern specialties, such as laap (spicy salad for the carnivorous) and sticky rice. Needless to say, we dine there every evening.

Sometimes, Noi, one of the very active owners, would stroll around during dinner, making sure the guests ordered dishes which complemented each other. On our first evening, she took our order and nodded in agreement with our selection.

Buyer, beware

Speaking of guesthouses, the place we stayed in while in Bangkok for an overnight pit stop between Ayuthaya and Kanchanaburi was terrible.

We saw Charlie House advertised in one of those free traveller's magazines. It looked attractive and was in an area we had not stayed before. Telling ourselves we should be more adventurous and sniff out new haunts, we decided to give Charlie House a try since this small hotel had been written as a solid budget choice by more than one guide books.

Bad, bad choice. Our room was nothing like the photos. It was cramped with two sagging beds and peeling paint. It was not very clean either. We spotted ants in the bathroom and the walls of our room as well. Some of these ants were large enough to give us a nasty bite. On the plus side, the lady manager was a very pleasant woman, who made us feel very welcome.

Budget (for two in baht)

Nov 27
Room >> B250
Breakfast >> B145
Laundry >> B15
Train (Nam Tok return) >> B68
H20 & kueh (pastries) >> B20
H20 (3x) >> B15
Lunch >> B30
Bananas >> B10
Dinner >> B264

Nov 28
Room >> B250
Brunch >> B95
Songthaew to Bridge >> B12
Snacks >> B40
Postcards >> B10
Drinks >> B40
Dinner >> B204

Next... Back to city life

War and peace >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 47

Nov 26: Morning, Kanchanaburi

Kanchanaburi is a surprise, a very pleasant surprise. It is not as choked with backpackers (disco nights at guesthouses and watering holes down river) or as kitschy (tacky Bridge Over River Kwai souvenirs) as the impression we get from guide books and fellow travellers.

We arrive just in time for the week-long annual festival to commemorate the sacrifices of World War Two. Banners annoucing the festival adorn the roads in town. But the heart of festivities centres on the grounds next to the River Kwai Bridge. This is a half-an-hour walk from leafy Apple Guesthouse, where we plan to stay for the next two or three days.

After settling in, we decided to check out the surroundings. It was very hot when we started walking and there was little shade along the road. Luckily, there were enough distractions along the way, one of them being lunch in a shop by the road, next to a patch of parched land.

In this heat, it was difficult to work up an enthusiasm for food, especially of the hot, soupy (or porridgy) variety. But, the noodles were so tasty! We realised we were quite hungry after all and ended up sharing three bowls of noodles and a bottle of ice-cold Pepsi.

Replete and rejuvenated, we tackled the rest of the walk to the Bridge. There, a very different sight awaited us. Gone was the somnolent and almost isolated air during our walk. It was somewhat of a shock to see so many people milling about.

The carnival was already in full swing, spread across the ground on both sides of the small train station (more a stop really). The stalls were packed with all sorts of goodies for sale, from the edible to the usable. The sights, sounds and smells were incredible.

A few of the food stalls selling doughtnuts, cakes and pastries were making them on the spot! Meanwhile, other stalls peddling deep-fried snacks, bubble tea and crispy insects competed by offering as bewildering and colourful a spread as they could display at their compact stalls. There were mountains of food.

As if not to be outdone, the non-edible sections brought out a vast selection of casual and more formal clothing, from rugged jeans and funky (or rude, depending on your sense of humour) t-shirts to smart pant suits and slinky dresses. Looking around, we also saw loads of household items on sale. If we wanted to, we could even order custom-made curtains!

Meanwhile, entertainment (besides people-watching and snacking) came in the form of performances on the open-air stage. There was some kind of schedule posted, but we could not read Thai. It was all so fun-filled and lighthearted that we found it difficult to remember that countless prisoners of war toiled and died constructing the Death Railway during the Second World War.

However, once we walked away from the carnival and towards the JEATH museum and war shrine, a much more sombre air permeated. It was moving to see small groups and couples entering the shrine to lay a wreath or burn some incense. In space and time, how far removed this tranquil and leafy nook must be from the rousing festivities a short distance away, and from the human suffering in the not-too-distant past.

In the evening, we headed back to the Bridge for the Light and Sound show. It was drizzling, but that did not deter the audience, who packed the muli-tiered stands, wearing rain coats or carrying umbrellas. Some did not even bother, seating bareheaded in the rain.

The Light and Sound show was an impressive display. Action flowed seamlessly between the river, the Bridge and the two floating stages by the river bank below the spectator stands. One of the highlights included the dramatic entry of the gleaming locomotive, steaming regally out of the woods from the other side of the river and pausing just after crossing the Bridge for spectators to admire.

Midway through the show, Annie whispered to me, "I wonder what the Japanese are thinking about when watching this display?"

It must not be easy watching the segment depicting Japanese aggression in Southeast Asia, even in this watered down version.

Pillage and plunder, terror and torment. That is the dominant nightmare for many Asians, especially the older generations, who have lived and suffered through the Japanese Occupation. Although there now seems to be little outward anger towards the Japanese in Southeast Asia, it is obvious that many Asians still remember their tragedy, as is evident from the outpouring of anger every time a Japanese leader visit a war shrine where major military figures of the period were interred.

So no, not water under the bridge at all in this part of the world, and not for a long time, I suspect.

Especially as some seem intent on fanning the flames of hatred to fuel their own ambitions. With Japan seemingly on the road to sheding the 'shy' military mein it has cultivated so scrupulously after its defeat by the Allied powers in 1945, such anti-Japanese sentiments can very easily warp into darker impulses. All in all, a potential minefield that, if detonated, may destablise and destroy everything this region has achieved since the end of the Second World War.

I should stop. Enough speculation. However, I am now reminded of a danger, more immediate and definitely closer to home, to travellers visiting Kanchanaburi. Dogs have dogged us since Ayuthaya. Having said that, the dogs here are less of a problem, but we have still been stalked by the occasional over-zealous one.

Budget (for two in baht)

Nov 24
Room >> B500 + Breakfast >> B115 + Entry (Wat Mahathat) >> B60 + Entry (Ratchaburana) >> B60 + Drinks >> B35 + Lunch >> B160 + Dinner >> B40 + Supper >> B65.25

Nov 25
Room >> B540 + Breakfast >> B115 + Minibus to Bangkok >> B90 + Taxi to hotel >> B71 + Lunch >> B199 + BTS (Sala Daeng to Nana) >> B50 + Drinks >> B120 + Dinner >> B105 + H20 >> B10

Nov 26
Room >> B250 + Breakfast >> B105 + Taxi to Southern Bus Station >> B110 + AC bus to Kanchanaburi >> B158 + Songthaew to War Cemetery (for guesthouse) >> B12 + Lunch >> B55 + Internet (2 hours) & Pepsi >> B90 + Dinner >> B200 + Tuk-tuk (Guesthouse to River Kwai Bridge) >> B30 + Light & Sound show >> B200

Next... Iron Rooster on the Death Railway

Dogged >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 46

Nov 23: Night, Ayuthaya

From Udon Thani, we took the overnight train to Ayathaya, the capital of Siam in the 13th-14th centuries. With the fall of the Khmer-influenced Sukhotai empire, the Siamese gained dominance over the land.

Trying to recall textbook history from school did not help me to sleep. And the conditions in fan class were no help either. This was the first time we booked seats in fan class. It was comfortably cool at night, but the lights remained on. Way too bright to snooze. Then, we were periodically distracted by the patrol, a man carrying a torch and handgun walking up and down the carriages.

Despite staying awake, we still managed to almost miss our stop. We were at the second last carriage and when our train pulled into the station in Ayuthaya at 5.20am, we could not see the sign with the station's name. Actually, the Ayuthaya station was so small that we did not see the station from our carriage!

Luckily, we proved to be fleetfooted when sufficiently motivated. And not a moment too soon, as the train started to pull out again. A station officer on the ground saw us and yelled for the train to stop. We were grateful and leapt out quickly before we became entertainment for bored insomniacs on board.

Ayuthaya is sprawling. The tuk-tuk drivers, unsurprisingly, overcharge as and when they can.

Drained after a couple bouts of futile haggling, we took to self-powered transport. Better to rely on our own feet than to be held ransom by voracious tuk-tuk drivers. Walking at our own pace, we were fortunate to see some interesting ruins.

The day would have been a great one if not for the dogs.

The canine menace was not confined to strays. In fact, our worst scare was from three dogs charging out of a house as we walked by. They rounded on us, barking and baring their teeth. And we were just passing by, walking on the edge of the road, more than a metre from the open gate.

The bo-chap (Singaporean colloquial expression meaning indifferent, cannot be bothered) owner, relaxing in her seat on the porch, just yelled at her dogs, but did not do anything else to restrain them. These dogs snapped at our heels for a few more metres before giving up the chase. Not fun at all.

Home for the next two days

PU Guesthouse, where we decided to hole up for the next couple of days, was interesting. It was like an extended terrace house, located on a fairly quiet lane lined with houses and small shops. It also operated on a bring-your-own-soap-and-toilet-paper basis. Occupancy was good and we could only get a warm box-like room downstairs, where we could hear the constant coming and going outside our door.

Then, the owner told us that someone was moving out of one of the more spacious rooms upstairs and offered us that room, which came with aircon, balcony and the princely sum of 500 baht.

We had not slept since yesterday. We were grimy from our all-night train ride. We had wasted one tuk-tuk ride and precious leg-power looking for accommodation in another part of town. Time for a little pampering. We quickly accepted the owner's offer.

Deal concluded, the nice owner told us we could bathe in the downstairs room while waiting for her staff to clean up the other room. Of course, we had to promise not to mess up the beds in this room!

Budget (for two in baht)

Nov 22
Lunch >> B60
Bread >> B27
Coffee >> B50
Shopping >> B399
Dinner >> B90
Tuk-tuk to train station >> B20

Nov 23
Breakfast >> B80
Tuk-tuk (two trips) >> B50
Room >> B500
H20 >> B10
Drinks >> B20
Lunch >> B40
Dinner >> B90
Ice-cream & doughnuts >> B47
Groceries >> B105.5

Next... A new destination

Much ado about... >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 45a

Addendum: Charoen Hotel to train station

Nov 21: Night, Udon Thani

Checking out of the hotel was hassle-free; getting a tuk-tuk to the train station for our overnight journey to Ayuthaya was another experience.

Dusk was changing to night and it was difficult to get a tuk-tuk. After waiting for 20 minutes (ample time to walk to the station) on the main road, one tuk-tuk finally pulled over.

There were two young men in the vehicle. The guide books are always warning about getting into a vehicle with more than one man on board. So, we were reluctant to negotiate the fare with the grinning guys.

But, it was getting late and there was no other tuk-tuk available. So, when one of the young men left his tuk-tuk and approached us, we told him we were going to the train station.

Oh dear! He could not speak English. Neither could his always-grinning pal. After trying various permutations of the words "train" and "station", we resorted to sign language and amateur acting.

But, I guess we were terrible actors. They could not understand and kept saying "airport?", which seemed to be the only English word they understood.

A sudden inspiration, and I ran back to the hotel. The helpful staff immediately wrote the Thai words for "train station" on a piece of paper and even taught me how to pronounce the words correctly.

Back I went to the tuk-tuk. The guys took one look at the paper and got very excited. "Ah, Tha Rot Fai! Rot Fai! Rot Fai!" Ha! Ha! Ha!

At last, they knew where we wanted to go! We reached the station in less than 10 minutes.

Assumptions

The tuk-tuk guys were helpful and friendly. They gamely persisted in trying to understand us even when the situation appeared hopeless.

But, they saw us waiting with our bags in front of a business hotel. I think they simply assumed that we were going to the airport, which was probably the destination for most foreign visitors on business. So, even when we mimicked the sound of trains and pointed in the general direction of the station, they remained convinced that we were going to the airport.

On our part, we could simply have shown them our train tickets, but we grew more desperate as our departure time drew nearer and simply forgot that flashing our tics should do the trick.

Also, we assume that it is potentially dangerous to get into a vehicle with more than just a male driver. A wise precaution, no doubt, but I wonder if the reverse is also true. Might not a driver feel safer with a companion, especially if he has to drive two burly males with large bags in a town full of foreigners?

Besides, I think some of them are just around for a joyride or two and to accompany the driver. It must be fairly boring to drive the same routes everyday.

This is a matter of trust and experience. Unfortunately, some rotten apples have spoilt the fruit in the barrel for the rest of us, drivers, friends and passengers.

Back

Among giants >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 45

Nov 21: Afternoon, Udon Thani

We had breakfast in Nong Khai before setting out for Sala Kaew Ku, the Buddha park on the outskirts of town. The scrambled eggs with ham were very good, but our starch intake was sadly restricted to the dainty toasts that accompanied our protein dish.

As we planned to leave for Udon Thani later in the morning, we were off to Sala Kaew Ku by 8.30am.

This Buddha park was smaller than her sister in Laos and very quiet in contrast. Besides us, there were only one or two other visitors within the compound. The stone sculptures, however, were as impressive and as imaginatively rendered.

Not intending to take too many photos, we did not bring an extra row of film for this excursion. And so, just midway through our walk, we discovered we were low on film and had to husband our remaining resources for the rest of our visit.

After a fairly whirlwind (by our speed anyway) tour of Sala Kaew Ku, we hurried back to the hotel. Our bags were already packed and we settled our bill quickly. Then, it was off to the bus station.

Alighting from our tuk-tuk, we saw a bus getting ready to move out. It was the Udon Thani bus! Some wild gesturing from the bus boy induced us to scramble up the vehicle and, by 10.20am, we were on our way to Udon Thani.

At Udon Thani, we walked from the chaotic bus station towards the eating and shopping places a stone's throw away. Unfortunately, we could not find a budget place we liked. We thought the accommodation choices looked rather crummy.

Eventualy, we 'upgraded' to the neat and trim Charoen Hotel, which seemed popular with businessmen and Thai families. Actually, we had walked into an even better-looking hotel, attracted by the lavish use of glass in its bright and airy atrium. The beautifully coiffured and attired staff were very polite and smiley, but regretably, they could not offer a room to Madam because the hotel was fully occupied for the night. Instead, they directed us to the Charoen Hotel.

At Charoen, we were shown a couple of rooms. We were indicated the one we liked, agreed on the price and discovered we got ourselves a deluxe room, which was three grades above the cheapest. Carpeted aircon room, ensuite bathroom with tub, cable TV, minibar and even an in-house swimming pool. Yup, we had moved up. Yes, indeed.

May as well enjoy the amenities while we are here.

Addendum: Annie's POV

Budget (for two baht)

Breakfast >> B130
Tuk-tuk to Sala KK >> B40
Entry >> B40
Tuk-tuk back to hotel >> B40
Tuk-tuk to bus station >> B30
Bus to Udon Thani >> B42
Tuk-tuk to hotel >> B40
Room >> B750
Tips >> B20
Lunch >> B65
Groceries >> B323.50
Train tics to Ayuthaya >> B512
Dinner >> B119
Breakfast (for next day) >> B57

Next... Overnight in fan class

Man-made lady >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 44

Nov 20: Night, Nong Khai

Nong Khai is quieter than expected. It is not really a sleepy town, but we find the place rather boring. There is more to do and see across the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge in Vientiane.

We thought we had to pay a fee at the immigration counter on both sides of the crossing. There were booths collecting money at the Lao side, but when we reached the head of the queue, the lady manning the counter told me, "No need to pay!"

She then waved us away. Rather puzzling because I saw others before and after us paying the same woman. Perhaps ASEAN citizens are exempted? A bureaucratic mystery!

In Nong Khai, we decided to try the guesthouses by the river. One of them, Rim Khong, looked cosy and the people were friendly, but shower and toilet facilities were communal. Not what we wanted. We moved away from the river area after a few more futile inquiries.

Now, we were in a bit of a bind as we had not done much homework before hitting Nong Khai. We did not even get a map of the town. But, since we were in a part of town where food, drink and guesthouses seemed abundant, I reckoned we should be able to settle in a lodging of our liking soon.

As we walked down one of the lanes, we passed by a middle-aged Caucasian, who looked like he knew where he was going. Since it was not very enjoyable trudging in the afternoon heat with our bags in tow, I stopped him to ask if he could point us to another area nearby with accommodation.

The nice man walked us to Pantawee, where he had stayed before. On the way, he told us that he was waiting to meet his Lao girlfriend, whom he was trying to marry. He said with a somewhat resigned air, "But, Lao nationals could not have relationship with foreigners without government approval. So we have to apply for a permit."

Not knowing what to say in response to such a tale, we walked on, waiting for the man to continue. Then, he added wryly, "You had to pay some money to process such paperwork. Or you might wait forever!"

At the Pantawee, the man left us with a wave. The small hotel looked bright and clean, so we entered the lobby. Enthroned behind the counter was the lady manager, impeccably made up. The picture of a savvy businesswoman was completed by a smart three-piece pants-suit. When she gestured energetically to her staff and instructed them in low, smooth tones, they were quick to attend to matters.

Only, when facing the female boss asking about a room for us, I realised she was a man. Statuesque, flamboyant - an eye-catching display of womanhood!

She was polite and professional and got an employee to show us a few rooms. We decided on one and settled in.

Visual bombardment

This has got to be one of the weirdest rooms I have stayed in.

On the one hand, it is a clean and bright but unremarkable room - bed, small table with two chairs, small fridge and dressing table by the door of the ensuite bathroom.

Then, we look at the walls.

Pictures everywhere. Of young, nubile maidens and a good-looking guy or two, here and there. They cover most of the walls of our room and the inside of the front door as well. For a moment, we wonder if we have checked into one of those by-the-hour establishments!

Once we dropped our bags, we scrutinised the impressive display of photogenic models. Everyone was primped, powdered and power-suited. If some of them changed the colours of their suits and skirts into a shade more muted (such as fiery red to cool blue), they would not look out of place for a job interview with a staid and established company.

Oh, look! The candidates had even pasted their resume on the walls. According to their CVs, they were well-qualified to provide traditional massages, hair-dressing services, etc. And in case guests should miss the wall advertisements, there were also booklets in laminated pages extolling the excellent services offered by the hotel and its talented staff.

As the wall decor was rather overpowering, we escaped from our room to explore town. When we came back from our stroll later, we saw our lady manager in a more relaxed setting. She was filing her nails and chatting with staff and guests.

Transvestites seem to be accepted as part of Thai society. The more outlandish members are often stared at, but people are not antagonistic. Rather, they look amused at the display of such flamboyant antics. Still, I wonder how deep this accpetance is when I read articles in the newspapers highlighting passionate legal debates on what to label transvestites on their IDs.

Budget (for two in kip and baht)

Breakfast >> K15,000
Tea >> K14,000
Tuk-tuk to bridge >> B150
Shuttle bus (across bridge) >> K5000
Tuk-tuk to guesthouse >> B40
Room >> B350
Lunch >> B60
Ice-cream >> B20
Dinner >> B40
Milk >> B20

Next... Buddha across the river

Peter, park and pest >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 43

Nov 19: Afternoon, Vientiane

It has become very hot again. We do not feel like leaving Laos, so we are staying another day.

We have also moved back to Peter's Dragon Lodge, after one day in a swankier hotel. For one thing, Peter and staff are less smarmy. And Peter lets us have the pick of rooms available.

When we complained about slightly danky bathrooms, he listened sympathetically and offered another room. We did not tell him, like many typically uneffusive Singaporeans, but we appreciated his unobstrusive care and concern. When we left for Pakse on the night bus, a few nights ago, he sat with us in his lobby cafe until it was time for us to leave. (As far as we know, it is uncommon, at least until recently, to travel along Lao highways at night because of poor roads, fear of landslides and bandits.)

Once we moved back into his guesthouse, he wasted no time in asking us about the new bus service. Peter was gathering information so he could pass useful bits on to other travellers staying with him. I was loitering in the lobby when I saw a flyer about Tum Tum Cheng on the noticeboard.

Noticing my interest, Peter asked us about the Luang Prabang guesthouse and wondered if he should recommend it to his lodgers. He also asked us about Elisabeth, who ran the guesthouse with her Lao husband. We heard from other lodgers that he was an accomplished dancer of some repute in the country.

We told Peter that we met Elisabeth only once and she was calm and soft-spoken, even when we wanted to bargain for a lower price for our room! It was most difficult to banter about money with such a dignified lady! Our room was spacious, the bathroom was bright and clean and the staff was friendly without being intrusive. The price, though, was a steep US$25 for an upstairs double.

Lonely Planet to the rescue

Yesterday, we went to the Buddha Park, located on the outskirts of Vientiane. In the morning, we walked to the station near the Talat Sao (market) for the one-hour bus ride to the park.

The minibus was already packed when we boarded at the Vientiane terminal, but it was a happy bus. People made way and made room for each other while chatting and snacking merrily.

Then, a tanned-looking man, lips and nails painted blue-black, hair dusted with white flakes, ears pierced by dangling earrings, come on board with a dirty bag across his shoulders. In his right hand, he carried a metal box. It looked like an old car battery. This, he shoved under one of the seats. Then he moved to stand in the corner where I sat. Annie stood next to me.

The girls seating behind us stopped talking.

The bus was crowded. I saw the man leaning against a generously endowed middle-age woman. The woman quietly shifted away. When he swayed close to me, the white flakes from his hair drifted like snow on to my arm.

Unhappy already, I made exaggerated, sweeping, gestures in his direction, flickling the white stuff off my arm. As the packed bus jogged along, more flakes rained down and I become became more and more fed-up. The guy was now swaying and leaning against several people, including Annie. When I looked up at her, I saw my friend ready to do violence.

The silence behind continued. Even those immediately in front of us had fallen quiet.

Luckily, several people hopped off at the next stop. With no excuse to squeeze against the ladies, the man moved a little forward, to the space next to the seat in front of mine. That was the end of the matter, I thought. The three girls behind appeared to relax marginally.

Then, it happened again.

He moved back to his favourite corner. This time, we knew for sure he was leaning and rubbing deliberately against the women because the bus was not as packed as before.

Annie told the man off in English and he moved away from her after staring at her. The other passengers suddenly realised that the two women in the corner were foreigners, even if they looked like locals.

Out of luck with Annie, he decided to try with me. Before he could lean his bum on my shoulder, I whipped out my trusty Lonely Planet: Laos, planted the tome flat on his bum and pushed him away. Startled, he moved backwards and the two of us told him loudly not to touch us.

This spectacle was finally enough to jolt the other watchful men into action. Two of them turned to the man and spoke quietly to him. They looked very stern and disapproving. Then, they stood in front of us and the girls in the back row, maintaining a very respectable gap even when the bus bumped along a rough patch.

The weird man finally moved to the front of the bus. He alighted soon after. The girls were still quiet, but by the time the bus reached their stop at the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, they were cheerfully chatting again.

We, like the girls, did not allow that man to spoil our trip to the Buddha Park. We nearly missed our stop, though.

It was a good thing I saw the sign for the park and stood up frantically. By then, there were only four passengers (including us) left, so the driver realised immediately that we wanted to alight.

We were enthralled by the very interesting sculptures in the Buddha Park. Not only did the works appear to represent a melting pot of religious expression, some of the sculptures were so huge that we could walk in, up or through them!

Who said size did not matter?

Almost as intriguing was the sight of monks of all ages strolling happily around the park. Admiring the sculptures, posing for photos and just walking around, these oranged-robed monks added splashes of vibrant colour against the stone-grey monuments.

After our excursion, we took the bus, this time without incident, back to Vientiane. The view of the Friendship Bridge from our bus was an impressive one. But, it was getting very hot and we could not wait to get into the shade back in Vientiane.

The heat had wilted our appetite so we opted for a lunch of spring rolls. Done Vietnamese style, they came with lots of vegetables. It was very messy but so much fun to eat them! And most yummy!

Budget (for two in kip and USD)

Room >> US$15
Breakfast >> K14,000
Lunch >> K16,000
Drink >> K3,000
Dinner >> K18,000
Supper >> K2,000

Next... Who's the man? Who's the woman?

Festive That Luang >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 42

Nov 17: Evening, Vientiane

It rained. Some roads turned muddy. Other roads had potholes filled with muddy water. It became less dusty though and it was much cooler to walk.

Wat That Luang was very festive. Even before we reached the temple grounds, banners and streamers in all sorts of colors - red, green yellow, orange and pink - decorated the approach.

Within the temple grounds, there was continuous chanting and religious music. Many people came in groups, with friends and family. Everyone wore new clothes, the men more sombre in their shirt-and-trouser outfits while many women chose a vibrant ensemble to go with their sparkling accessories of gold and precious stones.

None, however, could match the rich, gleaming gold of the central stupa, its spires rising majestically into the cloudy sky. People gathered at the broad, square base of the stupa, offering incense and prayers. Smoke, from candles and joss sticks, and the not-unpleasant smell of incense permeated the surroundings.

Outside, many visitors thronged the huge food and fun fair that surrounded the temple complex and its suburbs. Standing out, among the palm trees, was the ferris wheel. A stone-throw away, people milled around the multitude of stalls selling food, drinks, clothes and sundries, their shopping enlivened by loud pop music.

Further away from the temple complex were rancuous game stalls offering more energetic entertainment, such as hoop tossing. For a small fee, a participant got three to five small rings or hoops. Throw (aiming was optional, it seemed) one of those hoops towards the generous spread of prizes, such as bottled drinks and cans of beer.

A whoop of delight came from a nearby stall. Someone had snagged a coveted prize.

Budget (for two in kip and USD)

Oct 17
Room >> US$15
Tuk-tuk to That Luang >> K5,000
Lunch >> K20,000
Entry to Si Saket + donation >> K5,000
Dinner >> K20,000
Dessert >> K2,000

Oct 18
Room >> US$15
Breakfast >> K16,000
Bus to Buddha Park >> K3,000
Entry to Buddha Park >> K6,000
Bus to Vientiane >> K3,000
Lunch >> K14,000
Tea & coffee powder >> K58,000
Postcards >> K3,000
Titbits >> K12,000
Mend shoes >> K6,000
Dinner >> K24,000
Supper & beer >> K12,000

Next... Lonely Planet to the rescue

Heat and dust II >> Travel: Laos, Myanmar, Thailand 41

Nov 16: Night, Vientiane

The express bus is as fast as the chicken bus.

It took us more than seven hours to get from Savannakhet to Vientiane in our express bus. For some reason, I kept thinking about the hare and the tortoise during this bus journey.

What a waste of money! To add insult to injury, foreigners had to pay more to take the express bus whereas the price of a ticket for the chicken bus was the same, regardless of nationality. Also, this express bus was not as clean as the other chicken buses we had taken.

Midway through our 'leisurely' ride, the driver stopped for lunch. After crossing a bridge, he pulled to the side, where the road curved gently, opening onto on a patch of dusty ground. Erected on this flat land were a few box-like shacks, like the temporary quarters of a construction site. There was a makeshift canteen, a row of offices or dorms (not sure which) and space for vehicles to park.

Ignoring the passengers, the driver and his attendant made a beeline for the canteen, to a table where food was laid out. They ate a tremendous lunch, heaps of white rice with two or three dishes. The rest of us had to make do with over-priced snacks or fried rice or noodles for lunch.

Deciding to eat a late lunch in Vientiane, Annie and I subsisted on our pack of biscuits, bottled water and the last of our M&Ms (Comfort food from home and, yes, they do melt in your mouth, not in your hands!). Most of the passengers looked more than ready to leave this dusty plain by the half-hour mark.

But, not our replete bus crew.

So we waited, languishing in the stuffy bus, hiding under the meagre shade of the canteen or shuffling desultorily in the early afternoon heat. Finally, some forty minutes into our enforced break, the driver slapped on his cap, got into the bus and gunned the machine. We piled in and were on our way again.

At the outskrits of Vientiane, the driver switched off the aircon. Windows flung open; hot, heavy air sunk into the bus, along with fine, light dust. With many people alighting and unloading their luggage, we did not reach Vientiane until half an hour later. I thought we were finishing our bus ride in a swirl of dust, heat and sweat.

But, some 20 minutes later, the driver switched on the aircon again. Windows came down; dust settled. We rolled into Vientiane station.

Addendum

Tuk-tuk drivers at Vientiane station are learning to be the predators that its counterparts in some other countries have devolved into.

This time round, one from this lamentable species asked for US$1 per person (>10,000 kip) for a 5-10 minute Tuk-tuk to our guesthouse. We eventually found one willing to drive us to our guesthouse for 5,000 kip.

Budget (for two in kip and USD)

Room >> US$21Breakfast >> K2,000
Tuk-tuk to bus station >> K3,000
Bus (Savannakhet to Vientiane) >> K80,000
Tuk-tuk to guesthouse >> K5,000
Lunch >> K16,000
Groceries >> K40,000
Dinner >> K49,000

Next... Festival